Prologue to great meals
Chapter One will soon take the Village by storm
On a recent walk along Greenwich Ave. — now a white-hot Restaurant Row — a near-empty restaurant called Chapter One caught my eye. The place was just as dead a few days later. I predict it won’t be for long. Chapter One boasts the most underrated kitchen in Manhattan right now.
Chef Warren Baird is an alum of Esca, the Joe Bastianich hot spot. He modestly calls Chapter One’s fare “pub food,” but that doesn’t quite capture the attention to care, confidence and craft behind starters like tender, lightly breaded skate bites ($12) with thick-cut Napa slaw and jalapeño mayo.
Nor does the term “pub food” reflect the smarts and wit behind greaseless lentil fritters ($9) beautifully plated on house-made yogurt spiked with cilantro, lime and cucumbers. Spherical and feather-light, they're like the world’s most refined falafel balls.
You get the same generosity and lusty flavors in Baird’s charred octopus ($17). Normally, octopus is Ambien for me. This one made my eyes pop. Perfectly grilled meat with just enough chew picks up a serious buzz from dried tomato, Meyer lemon and mustard oil. It’s a home run.
Baird also makes magic with another potential yawner. His pristine organic roast chicken ($23) comes blessed with luscious roasted carrots and an irresistible shell bean ragout jazzed up with garlic confit and chopped savory. Chicken’s so dull at so many places; here, it’s easy, elevated and elemental all at once.
Monkfish ($24), that old wallflower, gets a star turn too, paired with crunchy little pattypan squash and rich roasted fennel on a bed of lusty, tangy tomatoolive vinaigrette. It’s like spying someone plain all dressed up, and suddenly seeing their sexy side.
A to-the-point dessert menu showcases adult treats like pictureperfect apple fritters ($10) coated in light IPA beer batter with silky salted caramel ice cream imported from Il Laboratorio di Gelato.
Noisier, flashier eateries have been drawing the crowds in this neighborhood. Unassuming Chapter One felt like a haven, with its cool-but-approachable menu, low-key room and very friendly servers. As much as I’d like to keep the secret to myself, here’s hoping word gets out about chef Warren Baird’s talents and Chapter One’s warm embrace.
mkaminer@nydailynews.com