The BEVERAGES are BONNIE
Astoria spot’s food menu is a bit spotty, though
If you’re going to do a gastropub, you need to get both parts of that right. The Bonnie in Astoria pays more attention to the pub portion, so foodies will have to choose carefully to avoid disappointment.
You get a hint of this as soon as you scope out the space: The eatery boasts two fully equipped bars and there are plenty of small, “drinks-only” tables scattered around. (Fullsize tables are out back in the sizable garden area and in the front room.) The décor and vibe seem aimed at a younger crowd: brick walls, tile floor and modern rock on the sound system.
Mixologist Mike Di Tota, who’s also also the booze brain behind sister gastropub Sweet Afton, oversees the drinks program. By all means, check out one of Di Tota’s cocktails. He’s known for his botanic creations, and the Black Jack ($11) is a great example, mixing rye, Cardamaro (an herb-infused amaro), grapefruit, bitters and black tea with thyme. It’s tart and terrific. Beers and wines are well chosen and roam the globe: We liked the Singlecut Mahogany Ale ($7) and the La Chouffe Belgian Ale ($9).
Food is not as assured. In fact, while there are a few bright spots, much of the menu from chef Shaun Van Alphen, who’s done stints at Momofuku, Jean-Georges and Blue Hill, seems like an afterthought. Like the chicken wings, which are crispy and have exactly zero flavor. A hunk of grilled lemon doesn’t help.
The avocado deviled eggs are tasty, especially with the fried jalapeño, but forlorn-looking on the plate. A beet-apricot salad boasts an excellent maple-mustard vinaigrette but all else — frisee, beets, mushy apricots and goat cheese — is “oh well.” The starter to try is the asparagus tempura, dusted with matcha tea powder. With its zippy herb-horseradish sauce, it’s finger-food perfection.
Order a cheese plate as a main (or a dessert, since The Bonnie has none). The bread and Granny Smith accompaniments are stingy and unmemorable, but the cheeses (from Murray’s) rocked: an intense, savory Shropshire blue, a mild and smooth goat Gouda, and a nutty Salva Cremasco.
The serviceable Bonnie Burger is made with a Pat LaFrieda blend that lends a mineral tang to each mouthful; fries are decent but cost extra.
The PEI mussels, however, were really slapdash: While the “spring vegetable broth” tasted fresh, the advertised grilled ramps were AWOL, and the actual bivalves were teeny.
The soft-shell-crab sandwich was a howler: a sad speck of crab dwarfed by bun. And where were the charred pea greens the menu promised?
So if you’re looking for a great spot for a drink (or two), aim for The Bonnie. Diners, however, are advised to adjust their sights — and expectations.