TINY TREAT
You don’t have to be rich to enjoy Monaco
Yes, it’s the richest .76 square miles on the Mediterranean.
And yes, its feted casinos are full of flamboyant high-rollers, its streets swarming with Ferraris and Porsches.
But here’s the real news flash about Monaco, the world’s secondsmallest, and most densely populated independent country: You don’t have to be a millionaire to indulge in a fabulous vacation here.
Many of Monaco’s magnificent offerings won’t put a dramatic strain your wallet. Starting with that view: Nestled in the Maritime Alps, between the French and Italian Rivieras, Monaco — a constitutional monarchy ruled by Prince Albert II — is a sumptuous feast for the eyes.
With majestic mountains on one side and an azure sea on the other, it beckons with grand boulevards but also charming cobblestone streets and far-reaching stone staircases — a perfect marriage of opulent elegance and humble, old-world magic.
The best daily activity costs nothing: wandering through Monaco’s various neighborhoods. It takes just 45 minutes to traverse the entire principality — a day pass on the public bus costs 5.50 Euros (about $6) — and at every turn you’ll discover whimsical sculptures, pristine public gardens and historical markers, including the Princess Grace Trail, a crash course in Grace Kelly’s journey from Hollywood icon to Monaco royalty (the American actress married Prince
Rainier III in 1956). Wander too long and you’ll likely land up in France — there are no border markings.
Start by strapping on comfortable shoes and hiking uphill to the old city, Monaco-Ville, also known as “The Rock”; in the 13th century the medieval fort erected there was captured by Francois Grimaldi of Genoa, launching the Monaco dynasty. Perched on a 200-foot-high cliff, the neighborhood offers sweeping seaside views and alluring alleyways where, even amid the stalls selling tourist knick-knacks, lovely local cafes and crepe shops can still be found.
Major tourist attractions are in Monaco-Ville: the ornate Prince’s Palace (palais.mc/en), where a self-guided tour leads from one lavishly appointed State Room to another; the familyfriendly Oceanographic Institute and Museum of Monaco (oceano.mc/en), a buzzing interactive hub inspired by Prince Albert’s global scientific expeditions; and the Byzantine Saint Nicholas Cathedral, housing the remains of members of Monaco’s ruling family, including Princess Grace.
Savor more breathtaking vistas at the Exotic Garden of Monaco (jardin-exotique.mc/en), where you can get blissfully lost amid towering cacti and climb staircases that snake down dramatic seaside cliffs. There’s a sweeping view of Fontvieille, an industrial suburb that’s home to a man-made waterfront, stadium, and yet another Edenic setting: the Princess Grace Rose Garden (visitmonaco.com), where the scent alone will leave you captivated. (For about $70, you can buy a package that covers entrance fees to the Rose Garden and most other major attractions in Monaco.)
People-watching is practically a sport in Monaco — and it, too, comes gratis. The best places to ogle others are Hercules Harbour, where chic cafes and restaurants offer spot-on views of gleaming yachts and their fabulous owners, and the District of Monte-Carlo, home to one of the world’s most famous casinos. Built in the late 19th century by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris opera house, it certainly lives up to the hype, with an atrium covered in marble and encircled by onyx columns. Park yourself across the street at Café de Paris, sip some Cote de Provence rosé — a glass of the region’s specialty is an affordable 6 Euros (about $7) — and ogle away. With 37,000 residents representing 125 nationalities, about a third of them native Monegasque, Monaco boasts a population that makes “diverse” an understatement.
Luxuriating in sun, sand and sea is a Monaco must, and the public beaches at Larvotto are both lively and free. At beach cafes like La Note Bleue (lanotebleue.mc), which hosts live jazz performances, the scene is casual chic. It’s easy to while away an afternoon by enjoying a heavenly trio of music, wine and an ocean view.
Some Monaco extravagances, of course, are worth the splurge; your hotel is one of them. For a more urban, classically Monaco experience, check into the palatial Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo, in the buzzing heart of the principality. Built in the Belle Epoque style in 1886, it’s been modernized to merge an elegant past with an uber-chic present, complete with an ESPA spa and magnificent pool lounge designed by Karl Lagerfeld — the designer even managed to manufacture a superbly romantic faux starry night on the terrace.
Or take the resort route at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort. It’s part of the Monte-Carlo SBM group, a principality-wide chain connecting a host of venues via free shuttles and discount deals: four palaces and deluxe hotels, five casinos, 33 bars and restaurants, three spas, leisure venues including the Opera de Monte-Carlo and the feted nightclub Jimmy’z, along with the Monte-Carlo Golf Club and Country Club.
Stay at Monte-Carlo Bay, though, and you might never want to exit the extensive property. It’s tough to be bored of a hotel featuring 334 suites and rooms, 10 acres of manicured gardens smelling deliciously of jasmine, a sprawling pool and a lagoon with sandy bottom, a kids club and an array of watersports, from jetskiing to parasailing and flyboarding (it looks a lot like levitating over water.)
The property also brings the world to you — more enticement to stay put and relax. Beauty treatments at the Cinq Mondes Spa range from a North African Hammam to a Japanese bath, with more offerings inspired by Brazil, Polynesia and China. L’Orange Vert is a casual eatery serving up organic foie gras and kale salad but also global specialties like Moroccan tagine and Thai curry; dinner at the elegant Blue Bay restaurant is infused with the spices and flavors of chef Marcel Ravin’s native country, Martinique.
Dining is another arena in which splurging is a must — Monaco is renowned for its eateries. The latest buzz is Monaco’s marriage of locally sourced
products with haute cuisine. Case in point: Elsa, the world’s only fully organic Michelin-starred restaurant, where a seaside tasting dinner means a veritable garden on your plate — a divine event as pleasing to the eye as the palate (98 Euros, about $110, per person).
Also Michelin-starred spot is YOSHI at Hotel Metropole — Joel Robuchon’s first Japanese restaurant. Follow an indulgent dinner with a hookah pipe and a DJ set at late-night local haunts like Sassos, where the fabulous Monagasques model their designer bags and keep the dance floor electric until dawn.
It’s easy to plan a trip around one of Monaco’s festivals or grand events — they’re year-round draws. The F1 Grand Prix is best known, but there’s also the Monte-Carlo Spring Arts Festival, the International Television Festival, the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival and the Blue Ocean Film Festival and Conservation Summit, debuting this November: slated to bring together scientists, filmmakers, celebrities and leaders in ocean research and conservancy for screenings, talks and, of course, elegant fetes.
Even without a festival on, cultural institutions abound in Monaco. Thanks to Prince Albert’s anti-elitist stance, ticket prices for performances by world-renowned talents like the Ballets de Monte Carlo and the Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra are kept on the affordable side (tickets from 19 and 20 Euros, $21 and $22, respectively).
Possibly the best path to affordable fabulosity in Monaco comes courtesy of Delta Vacations, offering superb package deals and daily nonstop flights from New York to Nice, France, under an hour from Monaco. Especially noteworthy is its Le Meridien Beach Plaza package (lemeridienmontecarlo.com); the newly renovated, lavish hotel offers the only private beach access in MonteCarlo, and the property’s cooking and wine classes are a major local draw (average cost for a four-day package for two, including rental car, $3,700).
Indulging in such luxury, you’ll fast forget the very word “bargain.”