Italian treats are an art form
Now that it’s in the dictionary, it’s time to get on the same page about how to make arancini. The delicious Italian rice balls that Nonna’s been deep-frying for decades are now officially defined by Merriam-Webster, with the word “arancini” recently debuting on the dictionary’s web site. But chefs say there’s a lot more to learn.
Those who try to make the Sicilian snack at home know it’s not easy — often, the spheres will fall apart if they’re not made just right.
“The biggest mistakes a home cook can make while making arancini is not letting the rice cool completely before forming your rice balls, overcooking the rice, and letting the rice balls fry too long,” says Justin Bazdarich, chef at Italian restaurant and pizzeria Speedy Romeo in Brooklyn.
And when you fry them, don’t skimp on the oil, says chef Pasquale Cozzolino of Greenwich Village pizzeria Ribalta.
“You should have enough oil in the pan to completely cover the rice balls when frying, which will ensure they’re perfectly cooked on all sides.”
Typically made from leftover risotto, arancini originated in 10th century Sicily as a popular banquet dish served with meats and vegetables. Over time, the balls became a classic Sicilian street food.
Today, many restaurants stuff their rice balls with savories like peas and meat. But if made correctly, they taste great even without the extras.“I would not put peas in arancini,” Bazdarich says. “I get just enough sweetness from onions and fennel.”
Opt for Arborio rice, an Italian shortgrain variety used for risotto that retains more of its natural starch content. So when cooked, you get a more creamy consistency.
“When making the risotto, start the rice by sweating in some aromatics like white onion and fennel to add a little sweetness in the beginning,” Bazdarich says. “Then, add your rice to toast for a minute or two. You can deglaze with a white wine or a red, depending on what flavors you are using.” He suggests cooking the rice in a flavorful broth, such as chicken stock, lobster broth or a vegetarian mushroom broth.
“This will allow it to chill completely so you can more easily shape it into balls that stay together,” advises Bazdarich, who says not to cook the rice all the way through. “Leave it with a little bit of crunch. After you fry it, it will become completely tender.”
After the rice has cooked and chilled, mix in pecorino and Parmesan cheese. “The more cheese, the better!” says Bazdarich. “When mixed with the cold rice, the cheese melts in the fryer to make the arancini extra creamy and rich.”
There’s nothing wrong with a cheesy rice ball on it’s own, but if you want to spice it up a bit, add other ingredients. “We add minced roasted mushrooms, but you can also add minced cooked meat if you like,” Bazdarich says. 1 ounce mixed roasted wild mushrooms, minced Butter Olive oil Canola oil for frying 1 small onion or large shallot, peeled and finely diced Half head of fennel, finely diced 1 1/3 cup risotto rice ½ cup dry white wine 2 cups mushroom or chicken stock 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated coarsely 2 ounces Pecorino Romano, grated Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 eggs, beaten About ¾ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup panko breadcrumbs or regular breadcrumbs
Roast mushrooms in olive oil and salt, and set aside to cool.
Heat a heavy-based, highsided frying pan or saucepan over medium heat. Add a generous chunk of butter and a glug of oil and sauté the onion and fennel for about 5 minutes until soft but not colored.
Add the rice and stir vigorously around the pan for a couple of minutes until the grains start to turn slightly translucent at the edges. Deglaze the pan by pouring in the wine and scraping up the bits at the bottom. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for a minute or two to burn off the alcohol.
Meanwhile, heat the stock. Add a ladleful of the hot