CANNED BEANS THAT TASTE HOMEMADE
As much as I appreciate the slow and steady act of simmering a pot of dried beans, canned beans are my lifeline. They’re what I reach for most nights when I’m in need of a quick, protein-rich meal that doesn’t rely on the ubiquitous boneless, skinless chicken breast.
And with a little TLC, canned beans can be just as rich and creamy as dried. Here’s how: Simmer them in an olive oil and tomato-rich broth infused with garlic and herbs, and in just about 30 minutes, you have a stewy pot of beans to ladle over thick slices of toast.
Throughout Italy, Tuscans are lovingly referred to as mangiafagioli, or “bean-eaters,” so to say they know a thing or two about the legume is an understatement. Their rustic cuisine is full of bean-focused dishes, such as ribollita and fagioli all’uccelletto, the latter being one of my favorites.
Fagioli all’uccelletto — white beans stewed in a light tomato sauce with a generous amount of olive oil, garlic and sage — translates to “beans in the style of little birds,” meaning they’re seasoned as Tuscans would traditionally season game bird like pheasant.
Centuries ago, the rich would be served these beans alongside the pheasant, but the rest would be served the beans on their own, or occasionally with sausage.
Today these beans continue to be a staple in Tuscan homes and trattorias. This recipe is my twist on the humble dish. Traditional recipes start with dried white beans, but this weeknight-friendly version takes advantage of canned. Letting the beans simmer in lots of olive oil that’s fragrant with garlic and sage rids them of their dull flavor and bolsters their creamy texture. I love using canned cherry tomatoes here, which are ultra-sweet and juicy, but canned diced tomatoes work just as well.
Serve the stewy beans over slabs of garlicky, skillet-fried sourdough to turn them into a hearty and complete meal.