BREAD PUDDING

Makes: 8 to 12 servings

1 (about 1 -pound) loaf unsliced challah or brioche bread

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

4 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

1 medium orange or lemon (optional)

4 cups whole milk or half-and-half

1 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup dried fruit (such as raisins, cherries, cranberries or chopped apricots) or chocolate chips (optional)

Powdered sugar and/or vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional)

1 . Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 3 0 0 degrees. Meanwhile, cut 1 loaf unsliced challah or brioche bread into 1 -inch cubes. Place in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet.

2 . Bake until the bread is dry but not browned, about 2 0 minutes. Set aside until mostly cool.

3 . Meanwhile, increase the oven temperature to 3 5 0 degrees. Lightly coat a 9 -by-1 3 inch baking dish with unsalted butter. Melt 3 tablespoons unsalted butter in a small microwave-safe bowl in 2 0 -second bursts until mostly melted, 3 0 to 4 0 seconds total. (Alternatively, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.) Set aside to cool slightly.

4 . Place 4 large eggs and 2 large egg yolks in a large bowl and whisk to break up. Finely grate the zest of 1 medium orange or lemon into the bowl, if desired; reserve the fruit for another use. Add 4 cups whole milk or half-and-half, 1 cup granulated sugar, 2 tablespoons vanilla extract, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt. Whisk until combined.

5. Add the bread and ½ cup dried fruit or chocolate chips, if using. Gently stir to coat the bread and press the bread down slightly to soak up the custard.

6 . Transfer to the baking dish and arrange into an even layer. Pour any remaining liquid over the top. Drizzle the melted butter over the top.

7 . Bake until puffed, golden brown, the bread pulls away from the edges of the pan and the custard is set, 4 5 to 5 0 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving. Serve topped with powdered sugar or vanilla ice cream if desired.