Out of Africa, to B’klyn
Akara House brings Nigerian street food to Crown Heights
My friend Caroline, who is currently traveling throughout Nigeria, recently told me she learned to make akara in a cooking class in Lagos. Curious to try the common Nigerian street food, I searched Google Maps for a place in New York City to try them. All roads led to Akara House in Crown Heights, Brooklyn.
Akara House stands out amid the mainly Trinidadian restaurants surrounding it. There was a Nigerian flag hanging outfront and a sign that read “Nigerian restaurant,” pointing me to the right place.
Upon walking in, I was greeted by owner Funso Akinya. The space is tiny, bright and fairly nofrills. A few walls are painted with colorful mural-like artwork. There is enough space for five people to eat inside, and even that makes it quite crowded.
Akara House is an entirely vegetarian establishment, as akara is a naturally vegan dish. The word “akara” comes from the Yoruba word for “pastry.” (Nigeria has over 300 ethnic groups who speak more than 500 languages, with Yoruba among the three largest.)
It’s made with ewa oloyin, or
Nigerian honey beans, and Funso tells me that, to his knowledge, they’re the only Nigerian restaurant in New York that starts the process from scratch.
They boil the Nigerian honey beans, then peel and mash them into a light, slightly gritty paste. The entire process takes four to five hours.
The mashed akara is shaped and fried before being piled high onto a sandwich with a plethora of toppings. Between a pillowy soft potato bun, you’ll find the fried akara nestled within plantains, avocado, onion, tomato, cucumber, mayo and cheese. Open that jaw wide, because it’s a fat bite.
I couldn’t wait to dig in, but true to my nature, I first asked if they had anything spicy to add to the sandwich. Funso gave me a side of Akara House’s homemade hot sauce.
One bite in, I looked at Funso and said, “This reminds me of a vegetarian Filet-O-Fish!” He laughed, and said that reaction is common. Ironically, Funso’s first job upon moving to New York City from Nigeria in 1998 was at McDonald’s.
The fresh vegetables on the sandwich add a necessary crispness, and the American cheese, which can be subbed for a vegan slice, brings it all together.
If fried sandwiches aren’t so much your thing, you can go opt for some moi moi and jollof rice instead. The moi moi, which is a soft steamed bean pudding, certainly doesn’t disappoint. However, I personally prefer my Nigerian honey beans in fried mock FiletO-Fish form.
l Address: 642 Nostrand Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y. 11216 l Phone: (929) 610-3732 l Hours: Monday 12 p.m.-9 p.m.; Tuesday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Wednesday-Friday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Closed Sundays
l Prices: House Veggie Burgers & Meals $10.50-$22; Sandwich Toppings $.50-$1; Smoothies $6-$7.50; House Sides $5.20-$11
l Takeout and delivery available; no reservations.
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