New York Daily News

High on Himalayan eats

Dawa’s in Queens has right altitude toward a delicious cuisine

- BY KAITLYN ROSATI

It’s no secret that a plethora of Himalayan and Tibetan food can be found in Jackson Heights, Queens. A designated Annual Momo Crawl has even been conceptual­ized based on the dumplings that have become a neighborho­od staple. However, head just one neighborho­od west, and you’ll find the beloved momo in a more refined setting at Dawa’s in Woodside, Queens.

Opened in 2016 by Chef Dawa, who was born in Tibet but raised in Nepal, and her father, Ngodup, Dawa’s is a plant-filled oasis serving up modernized takes on traditiona­l Tibetan cuisine. The menu is separated into American dishes and Himalayan-inspired dishes, and while there are plenty of tempting offerings on the American side, the Himalayan-inspired menu easily outranks it.

For example, sure, the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich on the American menu sounds great, but why not go for Jhasha Khatsa instead? The dish consists of chicken that’s been marinated for 12 hours in ginger, garlic and soy sauce, then battered and deep fried. It’s served with fermented chili paste gravy and a steamed whole wheat bun. And hey, who doesn’t love a good pancake? While the American side of the menu offers homemade pancakes with berries and syrup, the Himalayan side offers black lentil pancakes (bara) with their chicken sekuwa dish, a Nepalese BBQ-style chicken.

I popped in on a Saturday afternoon and opted for two dishes from the Himalayan menu: the chili cauliflowe­r and the familiar, beloved momo. For the momo, I was given the option of a filling of either chicken or beef, and I opted for chicken. Don’t expect your Jackson Heights plastic foam-packed street food-style momos here.

Dawa’s plating of these dumplings, in a tomato fenugreek broth topped with fresh herbs, is almost too pretty to eat — key word: almost. The broth is bright, silky and refreshing, almost like a gazpacho. I don’t usually opt for chicken as a dumpling filling because it is often dry, but the chicken here was anything but and quite tender.

My server had warned me the chili cauliflowe­r was spicy. While I’m often warned of spice, I seldom find it true, though admittedly it takes a five-alarm fire to set my internal sirens off. When the dish came out, it certainly looked spicy with its bright red complexion along the battered pieces of cauliflowe­r, but the heat was subtle and came on like a slow burn. The cauliflowe­r was accompanie­d by big, chunky vegetables in a broth that reminded me of a chili-spiked tomato sauce. On the side, there was sticky purple rice that had a slight funk to it. While I ordered the momos due to sheer familiarit­y, this is the dish I would return for again and again.

I’m already pining for my return to try thenthuk, a hand-pulled Tibetan noodle served in a beef bone marrow broth with spiced fermented soybean chili paste, and riki kur, a Sherpa potato flatbread served with a green chili spread.

While you can stick to what you know with grass-fed beef burgers, chicken wings and even a kale salad, you’d be remiss to not order something less familiar, especially from a cuisine that generally gets overlooked. My advice is don’t go alone like I did. Grab some friends, order an array of dishes to get a proper sampling of the menu, and share them among each other, ideally with a cocktail in hand from the bustling bar menu.

Address: 51-18 Skillman Ave, Woodside, N.Y. 11377

Phone: (718) 899-8629

Hours: Wednesday-Monday 12 p.m.-10 p.m; closed Tuesdays

Prices: American Dishes $2-$30; Essential Goods $6-$15; Sides $5-$7; Himalayan-inspired dishes $10-$20; Small bites $7-$13; Dessert $8-$11

Takeout and delivery available; no reservatio­ns.

Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborho­od? Reach out to us with your recommenda­tions at nychiddend­ininggems@nydailynew­s.com.

 ?? KAITLYN ROSATI FOR NYDN ?? Spicy chili cauliflowe­r (above) with sticky purple rice (r.) on the side and momos (far r.) are among treats at Woodside eatery that also boasts American side on its menu.
KAITLYN ROSATI FOR NYDN Spicy chili cauliflowe­r (above) with sticky purple rice (r.) on the side and momos (far r.) are among treats at Woodside eatery that also boasts American side on its menu.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States