YA GOTTA BE YIDDIN’ ME!
Are millennials ruining the Jewish High Holidays with newfangled dishes? A panel of bubbes weighs in
CHEFS Liz Alpern and Jeffrey Yoskowitz have some chutzpah! In their new cookbook, “The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes for Old World Jewish Foods” (Flatiron Books, out now), the Crown Heights-based duo radically reinvent beloved Old World Jewish foods.
The sort of dishes typically found on the table for the Jewish new year are given bold modern twists. Cabbage gets stuffed with funky Korean kimchee, there are no actual noodles in the kugel, and gefilte fish is served with a colorful carrot-citrus horseradish relish.
“We have fun within the confines of tradition,” Alpern, 32, writes in the book.
She and Yoskowitz, also 32, grew up in “not especially” Jewish homes in Long Island and New Jersey, respectively. After meeting through a mutual friend in 2010, the duo, who have both long worked as professional chefs, decided to start collaborating.
In 2012, they launched Gefilteria, a Brooklyn-based culinary venture that sells artisanal gefilte fish
online and through local shops and food fairs. Although the gelatinous dish often gets a bad rap, the business partners found there was a hunger for an artisanal version that’s made with high-quality fish, non-GMO olive oil and fresh herbs such as dill. It also can be labeled gluten-free thanks to an absence of matzo meal.
“We’ve been amazed at how receptive people are,” sayss Alpern. “Nobody wants too see these wonderful foods stuffed into jars and dehydrated.”
But, she admits, not everyone might be so receptive to some of their ideas.
“There are a few recipess our great-grandmothers couldould never have conceived of,” she writes in the book.
With Rosh Hashanah starting Sunday, the Post invited four local
bubbes, ages 67 to 93, to try some of Alpern and Yoskowitz’s offerings and see how they compared to more traditional versions.
“One thing I love about Jewish bubbes is that they have strong opinions. For my own grandmother, even with her recipe, it will never be the same as the way she makes it,” says Yoskowitz. “There’s no way to please her with anything I make!”
Did he and Alpern manage to please The Post’s own panel of discerning bubbes? Read on.