SECOND TO NONE

The long-awaited subway line opens a new world of great dining to the rest of New York

SECOND Avenue astride the new Q train route is the city’s sleeper culinary mecca. Its delirious mashup of global tastes rivals Brooklyn’s Smith Street and Jackson Heights’ Roosevelt Avenue, although few outside the neighborhood have a clue.

Second Avenue on the Upper East Side isn’t picturesque. Ten years of subway construction killed off more than a few shops and cafes. Even so, the blocks between East 69th and 96th streets are home to unparalleled ethnic choices — American, Italian, kosher Italian, Brazilian, French, Belgian, Czech, Persian, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Argentine, Turkish, Vietnamese, Japanese, German, Greek, Hungarian, “rustic Latin,” Latin-French, Irish, Spanish, Afghan and Szechuanese — in every price range.

There are classic schnitzels at Heidelberg, Thai “hawker” snacks at Pye Boat Noodle, spicy pepper chicken wings at sake bar Mei Jin Sakaba, and fiery Chilean sea bass with mysterious “house sauce’’ at Wa Jeal.

Lovers of liquid libations head for 1942-vintage Reif ’s Tavern, super sexy lounge the Auction House and the downtown-spirited Penrose.

There are great food stores as well: immense Grace’s Marketplace, Sable’s (“World’s Best Smoked Salmon”), butcher shop Leonards’ (“Since 1910”), German sausage factory Schaller & Weber, and a Fairway that chain devotees regard as the best in the city.

The new subway, with stations at East 72nd, 86th and 96th streets (and entrances stretching three blocks south of each), should liberate Second Avenue from obscurity. Enjoy the feast now, before new development reduces it to morsels.