THE BEST OF THE MED
“There are amazing Mediterranean restaurants all over Manhattan, but when you think Mediterranean, don’t just think Italian food — Mediterranean food also means Israeli and southern French food.” — Celebrity chef Rachael Ray, who has eaten in the style of the Mediterranean diet her whole life
THE showcasebest Mediterraneanthe region’s kaleidoscopedishes in New variety York’s of restaurantscuisines. They’re also nutritionally beneficial — think loads of fresh veggies and fish — easy on the eyes and drenched in the sunny spirit of their lands of origin. And, best of all, they’re perfectly delicious.
SOUP’S ON Zuppa di cereali e legume, $16, at Osteria della Pace, Eataly
Executive chef Riccardo Orfino’s sunshine-in-a-bowl starts with a classic southern Italian soffritto of garlic, carrots, onion, celery and “primo organic” extra-virgin olive oil from Sicily. Barley, farro, dried green peas and lentils lend multifaceted flavor to tomato sauce. The elements are simmered to a marvelous, tonguetingling consistency and topped with more olive oil and fresh basil. 4 World Trade Center; 646-677-8580
SEAS THE DAY Grilled octopus, $23, at Anassa Taverna
Every Greek place offers the eightarmed beast, but what sets Anassa’s apart is consistency — it’s never tough, overor undercooked. The meaty, pre-tenderized cephalopod is charbroiled in olive oil, so it’s slightly crisp on the tongue but not burned. Capers, onions and a squirt of lemon enliven the meatytextured monster, which is presented in sections so as not to frighten squeamish eaters. 200 E. 60th St.; 212-371-5200
MORNING GLORY Hummus masabacha with sliced hard-boiled egg, $15.95, at Barbounia
Executive chef Amitzur Mor dresses up a traditional Lebanese and Israeli breakfast for lunch in New York City. Pitchperfect hummus is topped with whole chickpeas, tahini and garlic. A puree of chili, cilantro, garlic and lemon is sprinkled on top, lending a welcome touch of acidity that binds all the elements together. 250 Park Ave. South; 212-995-0242
VEGGIE SWEET Grilled Mediterranean bass, $34, at Boulud Sud
North African ingredients meet French technique at this showpiece for southern French cooking. Moist fish from Greek waters is accompanied by fregola sarda (a pasta similar to Israeli couscous), clementines, sweet carrot-gingerorange puree and Moroccan orangeinfused Lillet blanc. Cumin, coriander and preserved limes complete the fantasy of a cafe in Rabat. 20 W. 64th St.; 212-595-1313
SKINNY DIP Sardinian couscous, $22, at Vic’s
This recent menu addition, inspired by executive chef Hillary Sterling’s visit to a trattoria in Alghero, Italy, elevates Sardinian simplicity to a higher level. It’s one-stop shopping for all that’s great in Mediterranean cooking: nubby fregola pasta tossed with Maine crab, garlic, onions, fennel and, of course, olive oil. A red dip of Calabrian chili, anchovy and eel adds a sizzling note to the sparkle. 31 Great Jones St.; 212-535-5700