GO FOR BAROQUE
Beachy MALTA is equal parts culture, cuisine and chill
NO one ever said that vacationing in the Mediterranean was hard, but it’s especially easy in Malta. English is one of the two official languages (along with Maltese) on this tiny archipelago between Italy and the North African coast. Plus, people are unfailingly warm and helpful, the small airport is a breeze to navigate, and clearly labeled buses punctually whisk you to popular spots on the biggest island (also called Malta).
On the main drag of its charming capital city, Valletta, street musicians play works by legendary composer Ennio Morricone, gelato scoops are shaped like rose petals and everything is clean and civilized. Even by Mediterranean standards, the pace of life is slow and relaxed.
There’s plenty to do and see, but not too much — perfect for someone like me, who has a tendency to over-schedule itineraries and leave destinations feeling regretful about every quaint bistro I didn’t get to dine at or every waterfall I didn’t get to see. It’s known for gorgeous beaches, which made it perfect for the “babymoon” I took at 28 weeks pregnant this past spring with my husband. In Malta, I didn’t have to worry about to-do lists — but, lucky for us, the islands also offer some culturally significant sights.
First, wander Valletta’s baroque streets, see the Renzo Piano-designed city gates and check out St. John’s Co-Cathedral ( StJohnsCoCathedral.com) to gaze at Caravaggio’s largest, luminous work, “The Beheading of St. John the Baptist.” Pop into the National Museum
of Archaeology ( HeritageMalta.org) to ogle local ruins dating back to 5,000 B.C.
Then, take the 15-minute ferry from Valletta’s southern shore across the picturesque Grand Harbour to the “three cities” on the other side: Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. Grab an Aperol spritz on the water, take in views of the sailboats and yachts, then wander about quiet narrow streets. For dinner, head to Tal-Petut ( TalPetut.com), a homey restaurant in a former grocery store that has an affordable set menu. It’s a great place to try area specialties, like braised rabbit and ravioli stuffed with local cheese.
Another day, take the bus or hire a driver to check out the dramatic Dingli Cliffs on Malta’s western coast. Lunch at nearby Diar Il
Bniet ( DiarIlBniet.com) is a must. The family-run eatery serves some of the best food on the island, making use of produce from the family farm some 600 feet away. Indulge in a long lunch sampling Maltese specialities like baked macaroni, savory pies and various olive-based tapenades. At the shop in the front, stock up on nicely packaged edible souvenirs from cured tuna to olive oil to the same tapenades you just devoured.
On the way back to Valletta, stop in Mdina. Once the island’s capital, it’s now a pristine walled city that served as King’s Landing in the first season of “Game of Thrones.” Take in the movie set-perfect baroque and medieval architecture, then grab a snack at Crystal
Palace (no Web site; Triq San Pawl, Ir-Rabat), a hole-in-the-wall just outside the city gates said to serve the best pastizzi — small flaky pastries that are an icon of Malta — on the island.
The ambience is even more relaxed on the charming island of Gozo, reached via a 30-minute ferry from the main island. It’s roughly onethird the size of the bigger island but has less than one-tenth of its population. In happier times, Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and their brood spent several months here filming the 2015 drama “By the Sea” — and locals are still talking about it.
That includes Gozo resident Noel Sella, who runs a fish shack with his wife, Sandra, in a rocky, turquoise bay called Mgarr ix-Xini. The restaurant, which people just refer to as “Noel and Sandra’s,” was used as a location in the film; Noel was an extra and still fondly recalls Jolie. Brightly colored tables sit directly on the sand and the fish is impossibly fresh and perfectly prepared. Lunch there is an idyllic experience.
Overall, the food on Gozo is superior to that on the main island. Other great spots include Tmun ( Tmun
Mgarr.com), which serves up elegant pan-Mediterranean dishes such as spaghetti with sea urchin and butternut squash risotto with almonds, sage and pumpkin seeds.
Gozo is best experienced at a leisurely pace. Narrow, often steep roads don’t inspire speed anyway, plus that leaves time to soak up the sun at the beach or hotel pool. But do make a point of seeing the Ġgantija temples. Dating as far back as 3,600 B.C., these Bronze Age ruins are some of the oldest freestanding structures in the world — older than Stonehenge or Egypt’s Great Pyramids. A small, well-designed indoor museum complements the historic sites, and the central temple itself is a breeze to explore, thanks to nice signage and pathways.
Along the island’s northern coast are the salt pans (aka salt flats), where you can walk for miles along moonscapelike sea cliffs and see pools where the sodium chloride crystals collect. Buy bags of salt from fifth-generation harvesters on the side of the road. While there, take in Wied il
Ghasri, a lovely inlet bounded by sheer rock faces that makes for a gorgeous hike.
WHERE TO STAY On Malta
Casa Ellul, a boutique property right in the center of Valletta that is also a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collective, has just eight spacious rooms. The modern decor includes sumptuous beds, minimalist clawfoot tubs and, in some cases, private terraces with hot tubs. With attentive service to boot, it’s an ideal, stylish home base for both relaxing and sightseeing (from $317; SLH.com/Hotels/Casa-Ellul).
On Gozo
Patti and Giuseppe Piazzi, a Milanese couple who worked in the fashion industry for decades, have lovingly turned two small-town farmhouses from the 17th century into ThirtySeven, a chic retreat with a pair of small pools. Attention to detail abounds, from the artfully arranged restaurant fare to the Parisian wallpaper in the colorful, eclectically decorated rooms. Giuseppe takes visitors out on his wooden Italian speedboat during the summer, while Patti teaches the occasional cooking class. Brad, Angelina and their kiddie menagerie stayed here for a week (from $215 for doubles; ThirtySevenGozo.com).
The author was a guest of ThirtySeven.