MAD ABOUT MADEIRA
These Portuguese islands offer natural beauty and delicious food off the beaten track
T HE Portuguese territory of Madeira is famous for birthing two global icons: its namesake wine and soccer superstar Cristiano Ronaldo. It also has quite the reputation for being British retirees’ destination of choice.
But this archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean — which is, in fact, much closer to Morocco than to Portugal — offers travelers more than meets the eye. Millions of years of volcanic activity shaped Madeira to look nothing like northern Africa or Europe. It’s a wild world of black-sand beaches, heavens-scraping peaks and farm-filled valleys blanketed with fragrant flowers. Its breathtaking vistas alone are a lovely, madefor-Instagram surprise.
Don’t forget the balmy year-round weather — with an average temperature that hovers around 75 degrees in the summer and the low 60s in the winter — and surprisingly delicious local cuisine. It all adds up to a magical place that offers much more adventure than your typical island paradise. Here, how to tackle it all.
ATLANTIC ANTICS
Madeira’s main island (simply called Madeira) is mostly made up of volcanic soil, so there are no natural white-sand beaches. If that’s what you’re after, take a twohour ferry to Porto Santo, northeast of the main island, and frolic on its pristine shores to your heart’s content. The black-sand beaches on the main island are strikingly dramatic.
Of course, sea-centric activities are plentiful. The small but notable village of
Ponta do Sol, on the southwest corner of the main island, has a peaceful pebble beach that can be accessed nearly year-round — because this part of Madeira is particularly sunny. In the northwest, Porto Moniz is special for the stunning saltwater pools that were originally carved out by molten lava. Add some action to a trip with water-based thrills, from canoeing and fishing to diving and swimming with dolphins (from about $40 per person for an excursion with various companies; MadeiraAllYear.com).
HEAD FOR THE HILLS
It’s easy to be seduced by Madeira’s deep blue waves. But to get a sense of what the island is truly like, journey inland to explore its lush forests and scale its steep mountains. Renting a car for a solo jaunt is one option, but hiring a guide will make finding small villages, verdant banana farms, pretty levadas (narrow canals) and modest local eateries much easier. One of the region’s best tour operators, Nature Meetings can organize a trip that includes all these sights — plus hiking and 4x4 excursions ( NatureMeetings.com). Don’t miss Nuns’ Valley, a gorgeous old-world town hidden deep in a valley, and
Seixal, for its waterfalls and terraces lined with Madeira wine-making vineyards. Trekking enthusiasts can tackle the path between the island’s two highest peaks: Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo. For something completely zany, take the scenic cable-car ride up to the picturesque parish of
Monte from Funchal, Madeira’s coastal capital. On your way back down, though, ride a basket. Back in the 19th century, it was the fastest way to transport rich people, who had second homes and farms up there to escape Funchal’s summer heat. These days, sliding down the steep incline in these two-seater wicker baskets, attached to wood skis and controlled by two men from the back, is one of the wackiest (and most popular) tourist attractions on the island (about $20/ride).
FOOD FEST
The island’s culinary heritage is astoundingly diverse. Even if you’ve visited other parts of Portugal, some of Madeira’s regional dishes will still be novel. Scarylooking espada, or black scabbard, is a ubiquitous fish here and comes prepared many ways: sweetened with bananas; or breaded, fried and stuffed into a roll. The sandwich can be eaten any time of day, including for breakfast. Lapas, or limpets, is a type of shellfish that’s tastiest when simply cooked with butter, garlic and lemon.
When chowing down on seafood, eat with a full view of the ocean whenever possible. Try Madeira’s staple dishes, plus heaps of organic produce, at the serene Fajã
dos Padres, which you can reach by boat (or, in a more mundane fashion, by car) from Funchal ( Fa
jaDosPadres.com). For carnivores, there’s espetadas, garlic-rubbed chunks of beef skewered onto a stick of bay leaves and grilled. Restaurants in the artsy town of
Camacha, on the other side of Funchal, are renowned for their tender espetadas.
As for the island’s finedining scene, book early to secure a dinner reservation at William, in Belmond’s swanky hotel. Its chef, Luis Pestana, became the first Madeiran to win a Michelin star when William was awarded one last fall for the guide’s 2017 edition. Here, Pestana’s signature dish is a hyper-local fish-of-the-day assortment plated with a purple potato puree and a ragout of mung bean, chorizo, carrots, shallots and chives.
Wash down your meals with a beverage. Madeira wine might be world-famous, but poncha is the real star of the local drinking scene. An alcohol made from distilled sugar cane, this drink — incredibly sweet thanks to sugar or honey — is available just about everywhere and often comes flavored with orange or grapefruit. Venda Velha in Funchal, whose floor is covered peanut shells, is a classic spot to toss them back ( Facebook.com/ VendaVelha).
WHERE TO STAY & GETTING THERE
Madeira’s most iconic hotel is Belmond Reid’s Palace (from $360; Belmond.com), a distinctly pink hillside retreat with beach access and elegant period furniture that has lured the likes of Winston Churchill since opening in 1891. The lobby was recently renovated so that it, too, like all 158 rooms and suites, has unbeatable views of the Atlantic. Fly to Funchal from JFK or Newark via Portuguese carrier TAP’s recently unveiled layover program. The destination is Madeira, but you can spend a few days in either Lisbon or Porto on the mainland at no extra cost. Flights this fall start from $750 round-trip ( FlyTAP.pt).