Checking In
Sugar Beach, St. Lucia
THIS pocket of the Caribbean Sea, tucked between Martinique and St. Vincent and the Grenadines, used to be known for its dazzling, debauched parties. A few decades ago, British aristocrat Colin Tennant — creator of the exclusive island of Mustique — regularly hosted royalty and rock stars on a secluded stretch of beach on St. Lucia’s southwestern coast. (His pet elephant carried the champagne.) The original developer of what was the Jalousie Plantation resort and later became Viceroy property Sugar Beach, Tennant had no idea what was in store. Today, the bacchanals have been replaced by BBQs. Instead of Princess Margaret, there are honeymooners and families lounging by the huge marble-edged pool. Those aren’t gripes: Sugar Beach has evolved into a Caribbean dream for discerning parents — an elegant adult escape and a kid-friendly beach vacation, all rolled into one.
WHY: It’s a grown-up place that also embraces children. Sugar Beach has a lush, majestic feeling, thanks to the verdant Piton mountains that flank the resort and photobomb every view. The guest quarters — 77 understated gingerbread cottages and villas, eight beach bungalows, 11 “sugar mill” rooms — all have terraces and private plunge pools. They look out to the water, the dormant volcanoes, or both. Their beachy interiors are white-on-white but manage to be kidresistant, with glossy wooden floors and slipcovered sofas. And thanks to fold-out couches, the one-bedroom cottages comfortably fit a family of four — so there’s no pressure to shell out for a multi-bedroom villa. Two new, modern “beachfront collection” residences, with four bedrooms and their own infinity pools and yoga decks, are a tempting splurge, though (from $6,000). Amenities abound for all ages: The resort has diving and water sports facilities, a spa nestled in the rainforest and tennis courts. Also appealing: the only two white-sand beaches on the island, located right next to a national marine preserve for incredible snorkeling and diving. Little ones are warmly welcomed at all the restaurants, even the fancy Great Room, with its dress code and tasting-menu option. Crucially, Sugar Beach also has a lavish (and complimentary) kids club with enthusiastic and professional staffers.
WORKING WELL: Sugar Beach excels at making life easy. On arrival, you receive a tiny mobile phone that connects to your personal butlers, who are on call 24 hours a day for everything from opening a coconut to replenishing a diaper stash. (You’ll use it often to summon one of the quirky, colorful Thai-style tuk-tuks that shuttle guests around the hilly resort.) The service is cheerful and proactive — staffers not only greet children by name, but will work hard to coax a smile out of a tearful toddler. They even ask whether you’re happy. (A far cry from service in New York City.) Little delights are a specialty. If you start to feel peckish while watching the kids dig in the sand, just wait a few minutes — chances are, a beach attendant will soon come ’round with some complimentary treats, like strawberry iced tea or fresh jam-filled doughnuts. NEEDS WORK: The food is excellent, but can get a little repetitive over several days because the offerings don’t change. On the plus side, the children’s menus are extensive, with sophisticated-yetappealing choices like roast chicken breast with mashed potatoes and a rainbow of steamed vegetables. You can always order from your inroom iPad, and eat under the stars on your private terrace.
MUST TRY: The coral reef just off Sugar Beach is packed with marine life. If you’re not ready for full-on scuba diving, arrange a snuba session. This mashup of scuba and snorkeling has you breathing through a regulator connected to tanks on a raft; after just 20 minutes of instruction, you can descend 20 feet below the surface and get up close to sea urchins, barracuda, trumpetfish, sea pearls, parrotfish, eel, seahorses and more. BOTTOM LINE: A no-brainer for families who want natural beauty blended with serious service. DETAILS: From $435, ViceroyHotelsAndResorts .com/SugarBeach.