FRAGRANT HARBOR
Experience old treats and new feats in fast-changing Hong Kong
HONG Kong is in the throes of a prolonged transition: the British handed control of the enchanting archipelago back to China in 1997 on the condition that it would be ruled by newly written laws for five decades. Twenty years into this pseudo self-governance, the city remains a global business hub and a mandatory stop during any Asia itinerary — as well as an intoxicating mixture of old traditions, new innovations and experiences that combine the two.
A tropical destination where a dense downtown is circled by miles upon miles of verdant hills for hiking and sandy beaches for swimming — and where I had the pleasure of living for four years — Hong Kong is a sensory delight. Not just a melting pot of historic and cutting-edge sights, it is a place where cheap and expensive, simple and elaborate, and East and West all collide.
Take, for example, the main tourist sights. Most involve ogling the breathtaking skyline from multiple angles: from the top of the Peak, the mountain in the middle of Hong Kong Island, or from an observation deck atop the skyscraping International Commerce Centre, or ICC. My favorite view is via the stalwart Star Ferry, a 35-cent boat ride across the harbor that separates Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula that is operated by grown men in sailor suits and designed for commuters ( StarFerry.com.hk). For a splurge, treat yourself to a jaunt on the Aqua Luna, a red-sailed junk boat beauty handcrafted in the 21st century using time-honored techniques (rides from $20; AquaLuna.com.hk).
Another indulgence: Base yourself at the Peninsula hotel, a short walk from where the Star Ferry and Aqua Luna drop passengers on the Kowloon side. One of the grande dames that dates to the colonial era, the Pen (as it’s affectionately called) has 300 rooms and suites that recently underwent a $58 million renovation (from $561; HongKong.
Peninsula.com). A synthesis of Hong Kong past and present, the Peninsula contains such contrasts as a modern rooftop bar, Felix, designed by Philippe Starck, and a classically ornate columned lobby to take part in that lasting British tradition: afternoon tea. Just a 10-minute taxi ride away, though, is Wontonmeen, a hipster hostel whose name is based on the Cantonese phrase for noodle soup (from $30; Wontonmeen.com).
Another main draw here is the food. Staples like dim sum, barbecue pork and roast goose take center stage, but plenty of chefs are riffing on them. Take 2014-opened Ho Lee Fook, helmed by chef Jowett Yu, whose fusion dishes — like fish smothered in JamaicanChinese jerk rub and then grilled — are creative and delicious ( HoLeeFookHK.
Tumblr.com). For nightlife, skip the scrum in the bar district of Lan Kwai Fong in favor of a beach club on the south side of Hong Kong Island, which boasts hot tubs and a bikiniclad clientele (from $35; Cabana.hk).
Hong Kongers are enamored with shopping. Kowloon’s Temple Street Night Market is good for kitschy trinkets, but for more fashionable souvenirs, head to PMQ , a conversion of police dorms that now house local design workshops and trendy boutiques ( PMQ.org.hk).
Another area obsession: the national arline, Cathay Pacific, whose elegant service, yummy food and extensive back-of-seat entertainment make 16-hour flights from New York palatable. It recently introduced an A350 from Newark (from about $800). So go on, embrace Hong Kong’s dichotomies. And have a blast.