THE REIGN IN SPAIN
A wave of new openings in attractive, affordable Barcelona
LOW-cost carrier Norwegian launched direct flights from Newark to Barcelona almost a year ago. Browsing Kayak on a chilly January night, I discovered a round-trip itinerary for a long weekend in late April with a price tag below $400 — and booked it right away. Here’s what’s new in Spain’s palm-treed paradise.
WHAT TO DO Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi is basically the patron saint of Barcelona, designing many of the city’s major attractions. Most trafficked are the still-incomplete
Sagrada Familia basilica, the garden- and mosaic-filled Park Guell, and Casa Battlo, a fantastical apartment building turned house museum and event space. Off the beaten path, though, is 1885-completed Casa Vicens, the first house Gaudi ever designed. Converted from a singlefamily home to apartments, a restoration returned the Gracia area’s stunning property to its former glory; it opened to the public for the first time in November. An informative audio guide explains how the house’s colorfully patterned walls and ceilings, adorned with natural images and geometric designs, reflect North African influences and foreshadow Gaudi’s later work. WHERE TO EAT In September 2016, former El Bulli chef Albert Raurich opened tapas joint Dos Pebrots in the up-and-coming Raval neighborhood. Dishes take inspiration from ancient and overlooked regional recipes and are wildly creative without being fussy. A sculpture of a pig whose back is lined with tender pork slices arrives at the table; broad beans are cooked in almond milk; and eggplant, pumpkin and fennel soaked in vinegar and oil come topped with greens (above left).
WHERE TO SHOP Forgo the Gaudi magnets and bring back goodies by local designers instead. Lined with ballet flats in every hue and leather bags to match, Kokua’s five boutiques are centrally located, with all products made right in the city. In Gracia near Casa Vicens, KTU
Barcelona curates funky clothes and accessories by area brands.
WHERE TO STAY Don’t overlook homegrown hotels. Known for properties in Ibiza and Majorca,
OD Barcelona debuted in August in leafy Eixample (from $155;
OD-Hotels.com). Furnished with woodsy minimalist pieces, the hotel has a triangular rooftop pool. The 2017-opened Room Mate Gerard, from the Madrid-based, boutique-y Room Mate chain, acts like your witty best friend (from about $150;
Room-MateHotels.com). Toiletries are emblazoned with catchphrases (“shower caps for brilliant minds”) and breakfast is served until noon. Noon! Let’s all move to Spain. The author was a guest of the hotels.