Slice of Summer
New pizza spot heats up Union Square
YOU don’t have to be a whiz at bocce, the Italian lawn game, to enjoy Bocce USQ , the new pizza-driven, indoor/outdoor cafe that’s taken over the Union Square Pavilion. While a few customers toss balls in a tinyy gravel court, many more hap-happily wolf down crowd-pleas-easing pizza ($16 to $20) andd share plates ($12 to $21).
The Pavilion has had its ups and downs in the past, but the new edition — led by managing partner Jason Leeds, executive chef Tim Meyers, pizza consultant Anthony Falco and GM Chris Johnson — looks like a keeper. The 19th-centuryry elevated masonry pavilionion with its hexagon-tiled patio has a new menu, new name and tastefully redesigned setting.
Shutters have been added to the south-facing side to help muffle breezes that once gave “tossed” salad a new meaning.
Meyers and Falco both worked at Bushwick’s pizzaheaven Roberta’s. They can’t replicate Roberta’s wood-burning brick ovens on Bocce’s electric grill, but their 12-inchers are still pretty tasty.
Crusts varied on my visits from thin to medium-thick. I especially liked sizzling pepperoni with aged mozza- rella, pecorino, oregano and scorching pickled chilies. A highly aromatic, margheritastyle combo of three cheeses, tomato and oregano was well above par.
And, of course, they use some Union Square Greenmarket products, such as young spring greens from Lani’s Farm and Norwich Meadows, on a tasty “farm” pie. Only a roasted mushroom number, like most I’ve had anywhere, registered as bland.
The big surprises were “share” dishes led by “bocce bread,” which is made from the same dough as the pizzas and puffed up almost like a balloon, with a delightfully-light blistered, slightly charredchar outside. A side of whippedwhip ricotta and olive oil elevated it to greatness. SnapSn pea Caesar salad sparkleds on plate and palatep with Parmigiano cheese, mint and black pepper. Calamari-andshrimps fritto misto was perfectlyp battered and succulent. su BeveragesB are in tune with the laid-back Italian summersumm spirit the place toutstouts — wines by the glass, carafecaraf or affordably priced bottle,bottl summery cocktails (such as “orchard sangria” with rum, fruits, vanilla and prosecco), and bottled beer.
Bocce’s summer reopening is especially welcome after the recent closing of longtime Union Square favorite Republic and other places. Unlike its Pavilion predecessors that closed Oct. 1, it’ll be open till Halloween — a whole extra month to savor summer’s remains.