STALE CHEESE
THERE is more cheese in the Netflix series “From Scratch” than in all of Italy’s heavily regulated caverns of Parmigiano Reggiano wheels itself. The shamelessly swoon-y limited series features such cornerstones of the romance genre as a hot Italian chef, that same man waiting in the rain, golden lit Florentine skylines, a wedding in a literal villa, passionate sex and, sadly, someone dying of cancer. Through it all, “From Scratch” remains defiantly sincere. Love is what conquers all, the show says: romantic love, familial love and communal love.
“From Scratch” isn’t a good show, but it’s a great binge. It’s the kind of series that will have you crying into your sweatshirt sleeve and opening a second bottle of wine late on a Friday night. You’ll be googling the cost of flights to Italy and texting your girlfriends about how love might still be real. It’s a perfect slice of escapism for the wine moms and independent women of the world.
Inspired by Tembi Locke’s memoir of the same name, it follows Amahle “Amy” Wheeler (Zoe Saldana), a bright young woman whose life changes forever when she spends a summer between law school semesters studying art in Italy. While in Florence, Amy is not only seduced by the idea of being a full-time artist, but she’s also wooed by a young Sicilian chef named Lino (Eugenio Mastrandrea). However, their story is far more than just a Florentine fantasy. As the series goes on, we watch as they struggle to reconcile their different cultures, juggle family drama and ultimately, Lino’s tragic cancer diagnosis.
My biggest issue with “From Scratch” is how quickly it was evident that it would have worked far better as a film. It stretches out Amy and Lino’s love story to include domestic squabbles over her sister’s Diet Dr. Pepper stash, Amy’s inconsequential relationships with artists at a gallery she works at and the stress of finding out where someone can watch Italian football in L.A. The drama is feather-light in places and absolutely crushing in others. It’s a story that lacks the harmony that Lino himself is constantly harping upon in his cooking.
The series’ biggest strength, though, is its dreamy Italian love story. As Amy, Zoe Saldana is the perfect avatar for feminine fantasy. Amy is smart, beautiful, creative and passionate. And everyone in her life supports her (to an almost unrealistic degree). Most importantly, she catches the eye of Lino, an impossibly kind and devastatingly handsome Italian chef. When Lino insists on walking Amy home, their moonlit stroll and flirtatious banter evokes the magic of Richard Linklater’s 1995 romantic drama “Before Sunrise.” When Lino gifts Amy a second-hand bicycle, he is the picture of chivalric class. When he insists on cooking her and her friends a gourmet feast, it’s over.
Of course, Amy and Lino’s love story is so perfect that it cannot last. Just as the pieces are falling into place for them in America, Lino discovers that he has a rare form of cancer called leiomyosarcoma. This forces Amy into the role of caregiver. She has to advocate for her husband and contend with the threat of life without him.
Ultimately, “From Scratch” is a meh show that is made special thanks to its performers. Saldana elevates the material beyond Hallmark Channel fluff. As Lino, Mastrandrea is a disarmingly charming new dream boat ... but it’s more ... corny, sweet and obnoxiously wholesome.