Croque Madame a la Petrie

Many years ago, I spent a day in the kitchen at the now-shuttered Pinot Provence restaurant at the Westin South Coast Plaza Hotel in Costa Mesa. Jason Petrie, the executive chef, consented to share some of his breakfast know-how. Petrie showed me some of his culinary magic for turning out breakfast fare 365 days a year, which he performed on untold numbers of eggs. One of my favorites was his Croque Madame.

Yield: 2 servings INGREDIENTS

Mornay sauce:

1tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

1⁄2 cup grated Gruyere cheese Salt to taste Sandwiches:

4 slices brioche, egg bread or challah

8thin slices Gruyere cheese 8thin slices Black Forest ham Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons butter, room temperature

Eggs:

1-2teaspoons butter

2 eggs

Salad topping:

2cups frisee; see cook’s notes Enough extra-virgin olive oil to lightly coat leaves

1 teaspoon chopped parsley Cook’s notes: Frisee is a variety of curly endive with delicate, ragged edges. If you can’t find it, substitute a mixture of baby greens.

PROCEDURE

1. Prepare Mornay sauce: In a medium saucepan melt butter over medium heat. Add flour and whisk to combine. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes (do NOT brown). Whisk in milk and salt; increase heat to medium and bring to a simmer, whisking. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup grated Gruyere cheese. When cheese melts, remove from heat and set aside.

2. Prepare sandwiches: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place brioche on dry, clean work surface. Divide cheese and ham slices between the brioche slices. Season with salt and pepper. Make two sandwiches by layering ham and cheese between brioche slices. Spread 2 tablespoons butter on the outside of sandwiches.

3. Heat an ovenproof, nonstick skillet on medium heat. Brown both sides of the sandwiches. Spoon Mornay sauce on top of each sandwich, spreading it with the back of a spoon. Cook in preheated oven until top is golden brown, about 5 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, cook the eggs sunny side up. On medium-low heat, melt 1-2teaspoons butter in a mediumsize nonstick skillet. Lift pan from stovetop and tilt handle to swirl butter over surface of skillet. Return to heat and add two eggs, one at a time, placing them side by side. Cook until egg whites turn opaque and solidify, about 2minutes. As they cook, occasionally loosen the sides of the eggs with a heatproof silicone or rubber spatula. Don’t rush it; let the eggs gently cook. Add salt and pepper.

5. In a medium bowl, toss frisee with just enough extra-virgin olive oil to lightly coat the leaves. Add parsley, plus salt and pepper to taste. Toss.

6. To assemble, place sandwiches on separate plates. Top each with a sunny-side-up egg. Top each with frisee mixture. Serve.