Roasted, braised in butter, leeks are seductively sweet

Romance was on the menu, so my friend Pam suggested leeks. Her logic eluded me. Because the leggy vegetables grow layered, like love? Because, as cousins to onions, they provoke tears? Because they’re dirty?

She didn’t explain. I took her recipe nonetheless. It called for blistering the leeks under fearsome heat. Braising them into submission. And serving with salt.

I gave the technique a try. I rinsed the leeks, roasted them brown and basted them tender. They arrived at the table silky, sweet, possibly even seductive.

Though, honestly, not a big hit with my dinner date. The next day, I toasted a slice of sourdough, slathered it with brie, and topped it with leftover leeks for a perfect solo snack.

Not romantic, but a singular success.

Roasted and Braised Leeks 12 medium leeks 6 tablespoons melted butter 3 tablespoons olive oil 3½ cups hot chicken broth,

divided use

Kosher salt

Trim away the root frills from each leek. Trim away the darkgreen leaves, leaving the white and pale green portions. Starting at the leaf-end, slice the leek in half, stopping 3 inches from the root-end. Fan the layers of the leaf-end under cool running water to rinse away the dirt and grit.

Swirl the melted butter and olive oil in the bottom of a 9-by13-inch pan, or other pan that will hold the leeks in a single layer. Settle in the clean leeks.

Roast in a 500-degree oven for 15 minutes. Use tongs to turn over each leek. Roast 7 minutes. Turn leeks again. Pour in 2 cups broth. Roast 10 minutes. Turn leeks. Roast 10 minutes. If you started with leeks fatter than 1-inch in diameter, pour in another ½ cup broth and roast 10 more minutes.

If you’re working ahead, let leeks cool. At serving time, pour in an additional 1 cup broth and heat at 500 degrees for 10 minutes. Either way, lift leeks out of their braising bath. Sprinkle with salt. Serve warm.

Makes 4 servings.