Grilled sea bass celebrates its herbal essence

NOELLE CARTER

It’s a simple, if dramatic, presentation: A butterflied whole branzino is marinated with turmeric, garlic and spicy Thai chiles just long enough for the flavors to infuse, 30 minutes or so. The fish is then quickly grilled until the skin is burnished and blistered and the interior is barely cooked through. It is plated under an assortment of fragrant fresh herb sprigs and lime wedges. You could butterfly the fish yourself, or simply have your fishmonger do this for you at the market so it’s ready to go.

“It’s a really simple recipe with few ingredients, and that’s the idea,” said Bryant Ng of Cassia in Santa Monica, Calif. Ng first had the fish in Vietnam, cooked by a chef friend. “He broiled the dish in the oven; however, we grill the fish at Cassia over wood and charcoal to give it a bit of that smoky flavor.” The drizzle of olive oil adds fresh fruity, grassy notes, and the scattering of fresh herbs allows each bite to be a new experience.

Cassia’s Branzino

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 scant tablespoon fish sauce

5 to 6 large cloves garlic

10 to 12 Thai chiles, stemmed Scant ½ cup canola oil

1¼ to 1½ pound sea bass, vertebrae and

bones removed; head and tail intact; butterflied

Fresh herbs, such as cilantro, mint, dill

for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving

Olive oil, good quality for finishing

Using a blender, puree the turmeric, fish sauce, garlic, chiles and oil. Brush the marinade onto the butterflied fish and set aside for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to infuse the fish.

Heat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat until hot.

Grill the fish, skin-side down, until the skin is brown and blistered, about 4 minutes. Carefully flip the fish over and continue to cook until the flesh is barely cooked through, an additional 2 to 4 minutes.

Plate the fish, garnishing with the herb sprigs and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately, with lime wedges on the side.

Makes 2 servings. Recipe adapted from Cassia Restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif.

Los Angeles Times/TNS/RICARDO DEARATANHA Cassia’s Whole Grilled Sea Bass