Chinese stir-fried tomato, egg recipe gets personal

Sometimes I think that the way I learned how to cook tomatoes and eggs was the worst. So it’s probably good if you already have your own recipe for this common, Chinese stir-fried dish — if we can even call them recipes, with so few ingredients and such simple technique.

Plus, the dish is purely personal. My mom’s version doesn’t waver, always soft spoonfuls where crimson and golden tendrils become one. My grandmother’s was firmer, red slivers nestled among yellow curds, surprising until I remember her gentle nature belied strong beliefs.

I must have drawn on this matriarchal lineage when I learned how to make this dish my own, not at home with their guiding hands, but on the fiery wok line at my aunt and uncle’s now-closed restaurant. I’m sure it was hot, but the deafening exhaust fan overhead also always made it feel like cooking in the eye of a tropical storm. The ingredients, while carefully prepped into bite-size pieces by a greataunt who worked in back, were far from farm-to-table.

The way they came together, with scorching speed and just the way I wanted, changed all the time.

Right now it’s all about the tomatoes, the wildest heirloom colors, and if they’re literally bursting with ripeness, all the better.

Tomatoes, especially heirloom cultivars, can vary wildly, not only in color but flavor, including water content. I love tomato water, especially with rice. As for the ginger, I want the flavor, but I don’t like to eat it, so I don’t bother peeling the pieces and leave them big enough to easily eat around.

You can also make this dish with tofu in place of the eggs, if you like. Stir-Fried Tomatoes

and Eggs

6 tablespoons peanut or

coconut oil, divided use 2 thumb-size pieces ginger,

skin on, thickly sliced

3 green onions, sliced

crosswise as thinly as

Stir-Fried Tomatoes and Eggs

possible, whites and greens separated

6 eggs, whisked until frothy OR 1 (12-ounce) package firm tofu, drained, mashed with salt to taste

1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored, cut in bite-size pieces (see note)

1 clove garlic, peeled, chopped as finely as possible

2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice

wine OR cider vinegar Fine sea salt Cilantro, sesame oil, black pepper, plus fried wonton strips, prawn crackers or tortilla chips for garnish Steamed rice, for serving Hot sauce such as Sriracha or Tabasco

Heat wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the oil, carefully swirling to coat pan. When oil shimmers, add ginger; stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add onion whites, then eggs or tofu. Scramble until barely set; transfer to a bowl.

Add tomatoes then garlic to wok; stir-fry over high heat until tomatoes release their juice starts to thicken (add cornstarch slurry if desired), 7 to 10 minutes. Add wine or vinegar, and salt to taste.

Return eggs to pan; stir together gently. Remove from heat. Garnish with onion greens, cilantro, sesame oil, pepper and chips.

Eat spooned over individual bowls of steamed rice. Serve with hot sauce as desired. Makes 2 to 3 servings. Note: If you want a thicker sauce, cook the tomatoes longer to reduce, or add a cornstarch slurry (2 teaspoons cold water to 1 teaspoon cornstarch) a little bit at a time.