Punt potatoes, this dumpling needs cheese

Meet the ricotta dumpling.

Some call them ricotta gnocchi (pronounced like no-key) while others call them gnudi (pronounced like nudie).

Some consider gnudi to be the lighter, more forgiving sibling of gn- occhi.

Some use the terms interchangeably. Some argue there are distinct differences between them.

No matter what you call them, they’re worth getting to know.

Similar to traditional gnocchi, but made with ricotta cheese instead of potatoes, these dumplings are soft and light and go well with just about any sauce you can imagine.

Whether making gnocchi or gnudi the ingredients are essentially the same: ricotta cheese, parmesan cheese, egg or egg yolk, seasoning and flour.

Based on the dozens of recipes I consulted, it’s the amount of flour and what you do with it that distinguishes gnudi from gnocchi.

For gnocchi, the flour is mixed in with the ricotta. For gnudi, the flour is on the outside.

The difference may sound subtle, but it’s substantial.

Gnocchi are reminiscent of drop dumplings; gnudi are more like ravioli without their pasta jackets.

Both are delicious.

The following recipes are amalgamations of numerous recipes and sources I consulted including Milk.Made by Nick Haddow, and April Bloomfield’s recipe in A Girl and Her Pig via Epicurious.com.

These ricotta gnocchi can be on the table almost as quickly as it takes to boil a pot of water. Simply mix, shape, cook and add sauce.

Ricotta Gnocchi

1 (16-ounce) container whole milk

ricotta

¼ cup finely grated ParmigianoReggiano (see note)

Salt and ground black pepper, to

taste

½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried basil

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes or

to taste

2 eggs

2 cups all-purpose flour, more or

less as needed

Desired sauce, for serving

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, place the ricotta and

parmesan in a medium bowl. Season generously with salt and ground black pepper. Whisk to combine. Taste and add a bit more salt as needed, then whisk in the oregano, basil, red pepper flakes and eggs. Stir in 1 cup of the flour, then as much of the remaining flour as needed to make a sticky dough.

Reduce heat to a simmer, and using two spoons, one to scoop and the other to scrape, drop the ricotta mixture by rounded tablespoons into the simmering water, cooking 5 or 6 dumplings at a time. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes or until dumplings rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon. Repeat with remaining dough.

Serve hot with desired sauce.

Makes about 4 servings. Note: It’s important to grate your own parmesan to avoid additives that would affect the texture. I used a Microplane. Don’t use the stuff in the green can.

Or, if you prefer a partially made-ahead dish, mix the dough for these ricotta gnudi in the morning (or the night before) and let them chill out in the fridge for a few hours before cooking. You will be rewarded for your patience.

Ricotta Gnudi

1 (16-ounce) container whole

milk ricotta

¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (see note)

2 egg yolks

Salt and ground black pepper,

to taste

½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried basil

¼ to ½ teaspoon garlic powder Pinch crushed red pepper

flakes or to taste

2 generous cups all-purpose

flour, divided use Desired sauce, for serving

Line a sieve or colander with a layer of muslin or a tea towel. Add ricotta and let drain for about 30 minutes, longer if you wish. Twist muslin or towel around the cheese and give it a squeeze to remove any excess moisture.

In a mixing bowl, combine the drained ricotta, the parmesan, egg yolks, seasonings and 2 tablespoons of the flour.

Scatter about 1 cup of the remaining flour in a rimmed baking sheet.

Place the remaining flour in a bowl.

With floured hands, pinch off walnut-size bits of ricotta mixture and roll it between your palms to form a rough ball. Then roll it in the flour in the bowl to form a smooth ball, about the size of a quarter. Place the balls on the flour-dusted baking sheet. Repeat with all of the ricotta mixture. You should have about 24 dumplings.

Cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 to 24 hours.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Brush off any excess flour from the bottom of the balls and roll between your palms to reshape. Working in batches, add the gnudi to the simmering water and cook for about 3 minutes, or until they float to the top. Remove with a slotted spoon.

Serve hot with desired sauce.

Makes about 4 servings. Note: It’s important to grate your own parmesan to avoid additives that would affect the texture. I used a Microplane. Don’t use the stuff in the green can.