Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Natural river delivers the color on fall foliage float.

National river delivers the color on fall foliage float

- FLIP PUTTHOFF

Gazing up at the tallest hills in the Ozarks, it appeared a fall foliage float on the Buffalo National River would only be a show of browns and greens.

The first week of November is often the peak of autumn color, but a trio of river runners didn’t expect much, as if the red, orange and yellow crayons were missing from the box.

Still, excitement reigned at the Ponca low-water bridge launch site. Anytime the Buffalo is right for a 10.6-mile float from the bridge to Kyle’s Landing is time for a celebratio­n, as it was Nov. 4.

The floatable portion of the Buffalo National River is the 135 miles from Ponca to Buffalo City, where the Buffalo flows into the White River.

A surprise awaited the paddlers on this trip. Along the shores of the storied Buffalo, low-land trees showed off leaves of bright yellow, orange and crimson. One would have thought the river rats were watching Fourth of July fireworks with the oohs and aahs

coming from their canoes.

Wherever the meandering national river curved south, sunshine back-lit trees in a blazing color show that’d fill a calendar’s pages.

The Buffalo has done a jack-in-the-box act this autumn of crazy weather. Allday rain pops the river level into flood stage over a matter of hours. The clear, turquoise water drops back into its river-channel cradle, only to rise again with the next rain.

Crazy. Tornadoes in October. Morning temps of 12 degrees, and it’s not even Thanksgivi­ng.

A cozy rental cabin near Boxley was base camp for three days of hiking, biking and floating in the Buffalo River country. A favorite website revealed the Buffalo was low but floatable in the Ponca area on Nov. 4. The paddlers expected a rocky, low-flow ride, but were pleasantly surprised at the ample water. The flow looked more moderate than low in their eyes.

Float the popular Ponca to Kyle’s stretch during spring and there’ll be plenty of company. Outfitters advise reserving boats in advance in springtime, the demand is so great.

On this fall foliage float, the trio had the river to themselves. Three kayakers launched ahead of them at the Ponca bridge, but they disappeare­d around the bend in a whip stitch. Nary a soul, not another boat, was seen the entire way to Kyle’s.

Paddlers can get a crick in the neck staring up at the lofty tops of bluffs, which cradle the Buffalo at every turn. That’s true any season. These crags are at their best in the fall when they frame red maples and yellow hickories.

The glorious Buffalo put on a colorful show after all.

 ??  ??
 ?? NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF ?? Autumn serves up an extravagan­za of color along the Buffalo National River, seen here on Nov. 4 during a float trip from Ponca to Kyle’s Landing. Trees along the river cloaked in autumn color made for a spectacula­r trip.
NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF Autumn serves up an extravagan­za of color along the Buffalo National River, seen here on Nov. 4 during a float trip from Ponca to Kyle’s Landing. Trees along the river cloaked in autumn color made for a spectacula­r trip.
 ?? NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF ?? Trees in fall splendor bow toward the river.
NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF Trees in fall splendor bow toward the river.
 ?? NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF ?? Bluffs rise high above the water on the Buffalo River.
NWA Democrat-Gazette/FLIP PUTTHOFF Bluffs rise high above the water on the Buffalo River.

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