Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Chickpea flour whips up savory vegan omelet

- JOE YONAN Adapted from “Broke Vegan: Speedy” by Saskia Sidey (Aster, 2021)

I’ve been on a breakfast-for-dinner tear recently, and I’m not talking about eggs.

Instead, I’ve been making pancakes, French toast — and, most recently, these omelets. Omelets without eggs, you ask? I can’t wait to see some of the most persnicket­y commenters get up in arms about the name of this egg-free take on a traditiona­lly egg- full dish, but yes: With the help of chickpea flour, you can make a lovely vegan omelet.

Granted, it comes together more like a savory pancake, with a batter that also includes a little baking soda (boosted by vinegar) for lift and turmeric and nutritiona­l yeast for color and earthy, nutty flavor. In the pan, too, it gives you those telltale bubbles on one side and light browning on the other before you slide a spatula underneath for the turning.

Rather than flip it all the way over, though, you add your filling — in this case, mushrooms, spinach and cherry tomatoes, but it could be whatever else you like — and fold the omelet over the mixture.

Before you serve, there’s one more step, an important one. Previous recipes of this type I’ve tried have resulted in something with a texture too dry for my liking. In this one, author Saskia Sidey smartly has you turn off the heat after you fold the omelet and then cover the pan for a few minutes to finish cooking, gently.

The result: crisp edges and a slightly custardy interior, helping this omelet live up to its name — at least to me. If you’d feel better calling it a pancake, that’s cool, too. Just make sure to eat it when it’s fresh and warm; that perfect texture doesn’t last upon refrigerat­ion, so this is no time to create leftovers, whatever they’re called.

If you love vegan cheese, feel free to sprinkle some over the omelets before folding them, but these are great — and very filling — without it.

Chickpea Omelets With Mushrooms, Spinach and Tomato

For the filling:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces mushrooms such as oyster or crimini, trimmed and chopped

2 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves

1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

¼ teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

For the omelets:

1 cup PLUS 2 tablespoon­s chickpea flour

2 tablespoon­s nutritiona­l yeast

¼ teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

¾ cup plain, unsweetene­d plant milk such as oat or almond

2 teaspoons apple cider

vinegar

1 tablespoon sunflower oil or another neutral oil

2 tablespoon­s chopped fresh parsley and/or dill (optional)

Make the filling: In a large nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach and tomatoes and cook, stirring, until the spinach is fully wilted, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl and wipe out the skillet if needed. Taste, and season with more salt and/or pepper as needed.

In a large bowl, whisk together the chickpea flour, nutritiona­l yeast, salt, turmeric, garlic powder and baking soda.

In a measuring cup with a spout, combine the plantbased milk and vinegar and slowly pour into the bowl with the chickpea flour mixture, whisking constantly, until you have a smooth batter. Taste, and season with more salt as needed.

Make the omelets: In the same now-empty nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat the vegetable oil until it shimmers. Pour in half the batter and immediatel­y swirl the pan to coat the bottom. Cook until the omelet starts to look brown and crispy on the bottom and the top changes from shiny to a matte finish, with lots of small holes on the surface, about 2 minutes. Add half of the filling to one side of the omelet, then fold the other side of the omelet over the filling.

Turn off the heat, cover the pan with a lid and let the omelet steam for 5 minutes. Transfer the omelet to a plate and repeat the process with the remaining batter, adding more oil if needed.

Serve warm, with a sprinkling of parsley and/or dill, if you’d like.

Makes 2 servings.

 ?? (For The Washington Post/Tom McCorkle) ?? Chickpea Omelet With Mushrooms, Spinach and Tomato
(For The Washington Post/Tom McCorkle) Chickpea Omelet With Mushrooms, Spinach and Tomato

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