Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette
Potato-topped fish a Lenten treasure
This Mexican fish recipe from PBS chef Pati Jinich’s new cookbook, “Treasures of the Mexican Table,” is an unconventional option for those who associate Lent with the traditional favorite of cod. It’s Mexican “through and through,” and you’ll find variations of it up and down the coast, Jinich writes, with different cooks and restaurants adding their own spin with different chiles.
Her take on the dish treats fish lovers to delicate filets of flounder first seared in hot butter, and then topped with a nutty, garlicky sauce of slivered almonds sauteed in butter with slivers of dried guajillo chiles and thinly sliced garlic. It’s full of flavor, with a nice, crunchy texture. Even better: The entire dish takes about 10 minutes start to finish.
To complete the Lenten theme with a cheesy, potato-y side, it’s paired with an elegant (but easy) mashed potato “crown” baked in a Bundt pan and sliced like a cake.
The potato recipe easily serves 8, so there are bound to be leftovers — Jinich suggests panfrying the slices in a bit of butter, and topping them with fried eggs and salsa.
You can find bagged guajillo chiles (the dried form of mirasol chiles) in the Mexican food section of most larger grocery stores.
Pan-Fried Fish With Garlic, Almonds and Guajillos and Potato Crown
For the potato crown:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for pan
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
Salt
4 pounds red potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¾ cup grated melting cheese, such as asadero, Oaxaca, Monterey Jack or mozzarella
½ cup grated anejo, cotija or Parmigiano-Reggiano
3 eggs, well beaten
For the fish:
2 pounds flounder or sole filets or other skinless, mild-tasting white-fleshed fish
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use
¼ cup vegetable oil, divided use
15 cloves garlic, sliced
2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced or snipped with scissors
1/3 cup slivered almonds
2 limes, halved
Prepare potato crown: Heat oven to 400 degrees, with rack in the middle. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan and dust with bread crumbs.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add potatoes, reduce heat to medium and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and place in large bowl.
Add butter and cream to the potatoes and mash with a potato masher or fork until smooth.
Stir the flour, baking powder and 2 teaspoons salt in a small bowl, then stir into potato mixture. Stir in both cheeses. Stir in eggs and mix until thoroughly incorporated.
Scrape potatoes into the Bundt pan and smooth the top. Bake for 55 minutes, or until potatoes are fluffed and golden. Remove from oven and allow to sit for a few minutes.
While potatoes are resting, prepare fish.
Season fish with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat.
Once the butter melts and bubbles, add half of the filets in a single layer without crowding the pan. Sear for 1 to 2 minutes on the first side. Before turning, run a spatula under the fish to make sure that the filets aren’t sticking. If they stick, give them another 30 seconds and try again. Turn and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on the other side, until fish can be flaked with a fork. Transfer to a platter.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons each butter and oil and cook the remaining filets. Transfer to the platter.
Add garlic and guajillo chiles to the pan, stir, and cook for about 30 seconds, until fragrant and beginning to color. Add the almonds and stir as everything browns and crisps, no more than a minute. Scrape the garlic mixture over the fish.
Invert potatoes onto a serving platter, and serve immediately with the fish, with lime halves for squeezing.
Makes 4 servings, with plenty of leftover potato crown.