Italy has impressive list of white wines to savor

Over several weeks, we’ve journeyed up and down Italy, learning the ins and outs of the country’s wine regions one glass at a time. You may have noticed that I’ve been largely silent about the country’s white wines.

This wasn’t necessarily intentional. Even the Italians would probably agree that their white wines are often out-classed by their reds. Tomes have been written about the splendor of the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, Brunello and Montalcino … but tomes haven’t been written about garganega and verdiso for a reason.

But, of course, with an entire country at our disposal, there are plenty of fantastic white wines to seek out. Here are a few of my favorites.

Cantine Elvio Tintero Langhe

Arneis ($12)

When I first discovered this wine, I hated selling it, worrying that the secret of one of the best value whites in Arkansas would get out, and I’d be hard-pressed to get my hands on this simple but sublime wine. Thankfully, as more people have fallen for it, wine shops have been able to keep it in stock. At $12, even less at some shops, you just can’t go wrong with this one.

Lunaria Civitas Pecorino ($16) Yes, Pecorino is both a cheese and a grape. Of course, knowing the Italians, it’s also probably a fish and an heirloom

variety of tomato as well. Here you’ll find peach, pear and orange blossom notes, with a lovely freshness and a subtle weightiness to the palate that’s perfect when you want something with a little more oomph to it to make a pairing work.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di

Tufo ($22)

Made from the greco grape, this is bright and downright zippy. Look for apricot and hints of jasmine on the nose while the palate is dominated by faint floral notes and a shimmering minerality that tastes like the way the sun glints off moving water.

I know that sounds weird, but I promise it’ll make sense by your second bottle.

La Spinetta, Colli Tortonesi Timorasso, “Derthona” ($26) Listen, if you’re only going to try a single wine from this column, it should be the Tintero Arneis, but if you’re going to try a second, it should be this one. Timorasso was a historic grape in the Piedmont region that almost went extinct and has recently regained some popularity. I’m really excited by the timorassoes I’ve tasted, and this is among the absolute best producers available. Look for notes of pear skin, almond and tangerine. In 15 years, everyone’s going to be drinking timorasso, and you’ll be able to say you drank it it was cool.

Wondering why this list is suspiciously devoid of any pinot grigio? Fear not, Italy’s most famous white wine and the region where it grows best will be the final stop on our journey to Italy. More to come next week in Alto Adige.