Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette
Buffalo Headwaters Challenge more about the camaraderie than the route.
Buffalo Headwaters Challenge bicycle ride more about the camaraderie than the route
Editor’s note: Robinson took these photos at several past Headwater Challenge events.
The 19th Annual Buffalo Headwaters Challenge — BHC — at Red Star in Madison County is quickly approaching. All my mountain bike buds are keeping a constant vigilance on the area’s Feb. 2-4 forecast. They are not monitoring the weather to decide if they will attend. They are watching it to determine what gear they need to pack. Because they are going.
I remember the 2021 BHC. It had rained five inches the night before and was still raining at the start of the ride. It took willpower for me to crawl out of my warm, cozy sleeping bag and climb onto the wet seat of my bike. As I pedaled to the start line in a chilling rain, I was already dreading the numerous wet creek crossings that lie ahead. However, that turned out to be one of my more memorable Buffalo Headwaters Challenges.
Since Ozark Off-Road Cyclists — OORC — first launched the event in 2005, it has endured torrential rains, freezing weather, ice storms, a global pandemic, and other assorted natural calamities. Even though it had to be postponed a couple of years (during the covid shutdown and when the snow was so deep the vendors were concerned the weight of the snow would collapse their tents), they still managed to pull it off.
As of the time of this writing, the BHC’s weather forecast is looking good with highs in the lower 50s. But even if the weather person has it wrong, it still has all
the ingredients for another memorable three-day, off-thegrid, back-country adventure.
BHC kicks off at 1 p.m. Friday when volunteers begin directing vehicles to parking/camping areas. Registration opens at 3 for cyclists to sign in and pick up their cycling swag. Later in the evening, participants will enjoy a bowl, or two, of Phat Tire Bike Shops’ chili with Fritos.
Riders will have the opportunity to finish off the day with a craft brew from Fossil Cove Brewery while enjoying the “Cosmic Ozarkana Music” of Justin Larkin.
DAY TWO
Jumpstart day two with a cup of coffee from Trailside Coffee Co. Then, to prepare you for the challenge ahead, follow up with a hearty hot breakfast in the Headwaters Schoolhouse. Rob Reno, OORC president, says they plan to “go big” for breakfast this year. So come hungry.
This year’s Challenge offers a choice of a 27-ish mile route, with approximately 3,000 feet elevation gain, or a 41-ish mile semi-supported one with some 4,700 feet elevation. However, to emphasize this is a ride, not a race, BHC will mark bailout points along the way, so riders can “create their own” route.
All routes begin together with a mass start on the gravel road in front of the schoolhouse. With cowbells ringing, riders roll out and immediately realize why they call this a Challenge. It opens with a 500-foot elevation climb. Most of the ascent is on a rocky, heavily eroded gravel road that would be difficult enough to remain upright on level ground.
The climb tops out on Cave Mountain Road. At this point the course has varied over the years. This year’s selection is my favorite. It jump-starts the adventure by sending riders down Buffalo Creek Trail, a sweet extended downhill thrill ride.
The first time I rode this trail, as I glided down the long flowing grade, I experienced flashbacks to the classic speeder bike chase scene in the 1983 “Return of the Jedi” movie. Like in the movie, I was speeding through dense forest, weaving in and around obstacles, expertly dipping my handlebars to narrowly avoid crashing into a tree. For a brief moment, I was Luke Skywalker.
Then it’s payback time. What goes down must go up. Up, at this point is the twoplus mile, 9% climb of Zeester Trail. Then down again. Followed by more ups and downs, with several, potentially wet, creek crossings as you ride through deep picturesque hollows. This is mountain biking in the headwaters.
One thing that sets Headwaters Trail apart from other mountain bike trail systems is the numerous extended descents. You won’t find these on other mountain bike trails in Arkansas due to their lack of elevation. This rugged mountainous terrain elevates the “fun factor.”
There will be two aid stations for well-deserved breaks during the ride. The first will be deep in the middle of nowhere backwoods. At this impromptu aid station, volunteers will be handing out power drinks, cookies and power bars to refuel riders’ depleted energy levels.
The second rest stop will be the Fire Tower Rest Stop. Here, in keeping with tradition, riders are rewarded with a grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup. It’s the best sandwich ever.
In this festive atmosphere, with a DJ pumping out tunes, riders enjoy washing down their sandwich with a locally brewed craft beer. And if your bike has been making funny noises or you are experiencing other mechanical problems, Phat Tire Bike Shop will have a mechanic on duty to help you out.
Throughout Headwaters Trail, riders learn that the true challenge of the event is to “enjoy yourself,” however you choose. If your goal is to ride all out to turn in the fastest time of the day, then go for it. However, from what I have seen over the years, even the baddest hardcore riders are there to have fun and appreciate the experience.
You will see riders pause for photo ops at waterfalls or other scenic natural settings along the route. They will linger at particularly challenging creek crossings to cheer others across or shout out advice for the safest routes. I remember one year there was a hidden submerged tree blocking two-thirds of the creek’s exit. Riders remained on the opposite side to advise approaching cyclists. This saved many riders from stalling out while still in the water and having to push their bikes through the creek. This camaraderie is what makes the BHC a standout compared to other mountain bike events.
As you pedal under the finish banner, greeted by appropriate fanfare, breathe a heavy sigh of relief, and enjoy a well-deserved feeling of accomplishment.
Before returning to camp and stripping off your wet cycling clothes and slipping into something dry, take your bike to the creek you crossed at the beginning of the ride and rinse it off. I know the thought of getting into dry clothes is a high priority, but take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.
Over the years, the event seems to have shifted away from being all about the ride itself and more about the reunion of like-minded individuals. I still enjoy the ride, and each year it offers an unexpected new challenge. However, just as important to me is returning to this natural setting each year to visit with my BHC family.
I remember a cyclist saying the BHC reminded him of the old annual mountain man rendezvous of the early 1800s he had read about.
Where kindred spirits gathered to reminisce with old friends and meet new ones who understood what drew them to their unique lifestyle. With the isolation of the Buffalo Headwaters Trail area, it is easy to relate to that era.
At the end of the day Delta Biscuit Co. will provide everyone with a hot meal at the Headwaters School. Then everyone will dance the night away with the wild, foot-stomping, gyrating, backwoods celebration when the Chucky Waggs Band hits the stage.
DAY THREE
Sunday offers another challenge for the truly hardcore cyclists who didn’t get enough on the Headwaters Trail ride, or those who signed up for this ride alone. A 40-plus mile gravel ride that routes riders on a loop to the Buffalo Outdoor Center (BOC) in Ponca and back, with more than 3,000 feet of elevation gain.
The Sunday ride offers some of the best gravel riding in the state. The initial 15 miles follow a ridge line through the Ozark National Forest. Then it gets rowdy as cyclists drop down the mountain on a double-track “wagon trail” to the BOC.
The return ride leaves the BOC on a paved highway that weaves cyclists through picturesque Boxley Valley. The highway is bordered by majestic oak-hickory forested mountains and open fields of grazing cattle. If you watch carefully, you will likely spot herds of elk that also inhabit the area.
Upon exiting the pavement, cyclists are presented with the “challenge” of the day. A four-mile gravel climb, with elevation gain of over 1,000 feet, at grades up to 14%.
AND THERE IS MORE
Mountain biking has evolved since the Buffalo Headwaters Challenge first began in 2005. In recent years, they added the Sunday gravel grinder to accommodate the growing interest in that style of cycling. This year, for the downhill adrenaline junkies, the entry fee includes free shuttle service to the BOC Ponca Downhill Mountain Bike Trail on Sunday.
These 11 miles of trails offer some of the most unique technical riding features in central United States. The drops, jumps and rock gardens will challenge even the more seasoned downhillers. And for those who are not into “big air,” there are ridearounds for the more extreme features.
At the end of day three, I am sure everyone who attends the event will agree — Buffalo Headwaters Challenge is just one more reason to be thankful we live in the Natural State.
For more information go to the 19th Annual Buffalo Headwaters Challenge Facebook page or sign up at bikereg.com/62176. Registration is capped at 300.