how to do it

1. PREPARATION

To remove grime without stripping all the patina, the cast-iron brackets were lightly polished with a wire wheel attachment on a power drill. Then the brackets got a thin coat of hard carnauba wax, buffed with a soft cloth. Alternatively, several thin coats of a satinfinish spray lacquer would work.

2. INSTALLATION

Using plastic ¼" inch brick anchors and #8 screws, the metal brackets were mounted securely into the brick wall, and checked for level. In this case, the owner found a weathered board and cut it to size for the shelf. The shelf was screwed into the brackets. Mounting brackets into masonry is secure. If the wall is plaster or drywall, make sure the shelf is adequately supported. The best bet is to screw into wall studs. If they’re not right where you want the brackets, though, you’ll need a backboard, or ledger board or cleat.

3. A BACKBOARD

Make a backboard, if necessary, before you install the brackets. Shadow-cut the bracket profile into the board with a coping saw, bandsaw, or jigsaw. For a more finished look, router the outer edge of the backboard with a cove, ogee, or detail from the bracket. Paint or stain the backboard before installation, then attach it through wall studs. Finally screw each bracket into the cutout profile; for authenticity use slotted screws (not Phillips or square drives), matching the metal of the brackets.

4. THE SHELVES

Shelves may be wood, glass, or marble. Wood can be screwed directly into the bracket. Glass or marble shelves can be attached with selfadhesive plastic grommets, even double-sided tape, or rubber caulk for more permanence.