the conversion
1. RESIZING
Restoration contractor Kevin Groves started by deconstructing and reconfiguring the three-part screen. The center became a stationary upper panel, and the two sides were adapted to become lower panels, which open to allow access to the double-hung window behind the screen. The top panel was slightly wider than the window frame; it was easier to adjust the window trim to the metal screen than vice versa, so Kevin removed and carefully shaved each window stop 3/16" using a more precise electric wood planer. With stops reinstalled, he caulked and painted the window frame. (He also remilled the inside stops on the double-hung window to ensure it wouldn’t rattle.)
2. ATTACHMENT
Screw holes were drilled into the side stiles of the metal top panel, which then was set carefully into the window frame using 1¼" flat-head wood screws to attach the metal screen firmly to the top and the side rails, with no gaps.
To be sure the lower panels fit flush with the upper panel, to look like one piece, the decorative scroll detailing atop the lower panels was carefully removed with a metal cut-off wheel set on a hand-
held die grinder. The lower panels’ side stiles were then drilled and tapped for 1½" brass hinges, each hinge secured to the metal frame with flat-head 3/8" machine screws. The panels were then attached to the window frame.
3. FINISHING UP
A simple half-inch iron thumb latch was drilled and tapped into the center panels for opening the panels and to keep them aligned. Some of the colored glass rondels had become loose; they were secured by gently bending and realigning the metal prongs that held them in the screen. Two cracked pieces were replaced with hand-blown rondels made in Germany (lamberts.de).
The entire metal screen was finished with a coat of satin-sheen black RustOleum to resist bathroom moisture and camouflage the new hardware. Now the neighbors are screened and the bathroom is bathed in amber light.