Old House Journal

a tub CAULKING

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When the caulk around your bathtub begins to shrink or wear out, replace it to keep water from entering the wall between the tub rim and tiles. Bathtub caulk (sealant) comes in latex or silicone. Latex is easier to work with, but silicone remains flexible longer. Standard colors are white, clear, and almond; other colors have to be custom ordered.

Remove all of the old caulk. Try a caulk remover to soften it; slice through it with a sharp utility blade or a specialty caulk-removal tool. If it's thick, use needle-nose pliers to pull it from the joint. The 5-in-1 painter’s tool may come in handy. Apply caulk remover to break down residue, then scrape it off. Use a non-ammonia bathroom cleaner to remove soap scum, then treat the area with a product for killing mold and mildew. Scrub, rinse, and dry with a clean rag. Using the widest point in the seam as a guide, position two parallel pieces of painter’s tape above and below the seam between the wall and the tub. Blunt-cut the nozzle with a utility knife to fit the width of the gap. Holding the caulking gun at a 90-degree angle, apply a bead of caulk along the seam, working steadily to keep the bead smooth. Pulling the bead is easier, but may mean you have to turn the gun around at the opposite corner to finish, creating a thick blob where the two ends of the bead meet. Pushing the bead with the tip of the gun best penetrates the gap but takes a bit more skill.

To remove excess and create a concave bead, wet your finger and run it along the caulk in a continuous motion. Remove the tape. Let the caulk dry for at least 24 hours.

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