Framing a Pocket Door
For rooms where space is at a premium, pocket doors neatly slide in and out of a wall cavity.
STEP-BY-STEP STEP 1
Prep the rough opening for the frame.
You need room for the door to slide inside the wall, without obstructions such as plumbing, wiring, or ductwork. The opening is 2x the door’s width plus one inch. For the rough opening, level the door-frame header by squaring it with the studs. Check for plumb. Secure 2x4s for the header with 2" nails. Depending on the clearance needed under the door, leave ¾ " to 1 ½ " of space at the floor.
Next, mark the studs, and hammer a 2" nail in the center of each stud. End brackets for the door rest on the nails, so leave 1 /8" protruding. Adjust the kit’s wood header, which has markings for different door widths, before hanging it, by removing the end brackets and cutting the header only to the width of your door. Flip the header over to cut the track 1 3 /8" shorter than the header. Reattach end brackets on the header. For the measurement for the nailing strips, measure the width of the door and add 1". Lay the header on its side and cut the nailing strip on the mark. Repeat with the other side. Slot the included end plates over the nails in the studs. Check for level. Drive nails through any other holes on the end plates.
STEP 2
Next, attach the split jambs, to be placed in two locations. One is flush with the nail header; the other is placed halfway in the pocket behind the wall. Check for plumb with a plumb bob by dropping it flush with the nailer header. Mark the floor and halfway in the pocket of the wall. First, slide the floor plate onto the split jambs—the protrusions on the floor plate connect with the split jamb. Nail the split jamb to the nailer header.
Repeat with the second split jamb at the halfway point. Make sure the split jambs are level and plumb. Now attach the floor plates. Enclose the frame by hanging the drywall. Use 1" drywall screws so that they don’t project too far into the pocket and scratch or block the pocket door. Seal seams with drywall tape, apply drywall compound over the seams, and smooth with a damp sponge, then let dry. Sand any rough spots.
STEP 3
Using an old door? Fill the doorknob hole with wood putty and some sawdust (to thicken it). Let dry. Check for cracks and refill if needed. Examine the putty on both sides of the door. Sand smooth. Paint or stain the entire door.
Cut a new opening for the pocketdoor pull and install. Next, on the back edge of the door, measure halfway up from the bottom and attach the bumper. Along the top edge of the door, measure in 2" on each side. Fasten the door plates to the door with the lock tabs facing the same direction. Slide hangers onto the track. For even weight distribution, alternate wheel positions. Mount the door by lifting it and slotting one of the door plates onto a hanger. (A helper may be needed.) Turn the lock tab into place.
Repeat with the other hanger. Finally, install finished jambs that match existing woodwork, keeping
3/16" clearance between the jamb and the door. Check both jambs for plumb; shim if necessary. Attach the finished split header and the trim.