SELECTING THE Hardware

Pocket-door kits are for doors 1 1/8" to 1 ¾ " thick. Modern track systems are made of aluminum—lightweight and stable. Wheel assemblies in the hanger roll on nylon wheels with ball bearings for smooth, quiet operation. A bumper at the rear of the frame keeps the door from sliding too far into the wall. Floor anchors keep it from rattling and maintain proper distance between split jambs. Check that the kit's header is the right size for supporting the weight of the door. Supported weight can range from 75 to 175 pounds. Look for removable roller tracks that are jump-proof. The nylon wheels should be at least 1" or larger, and self-leveling. Look for four wheels per hanger; three-wheel systems are less stable.

You need two flush pulls and a recessed edge faceplate with a pull. When choosing pulls, consider whether the door will need a locking option. C-notch pulls are easy to install and affordable, but the small locking mechanism in the handle may be hard to operate. Mortise sets often function easier, but installation is more complicated.

Flush pulls—rectangular, square, or circular—are recessed into the door; the finger slot should be a comfortable depth. For circular pulls, watch the diameter: choose 2" or larger because 1" styles can be hard to pull. Most flush pulls require only 3 /32" clearance, but some need 1 /8". Where accessibility is important, bar pulls are a good choice. But because bar pulls aren’t recessed, the door won't go completely into the pocket. Allowances will need to be made for the bar pull when installing the door.

Pay attention to the depth of the recess for mortise pocket-door pulls. The pulls on the edge face plate may be spring-loaded or hinged. Spring-loaded pulls pop out when a button on the edge plate is pressed; hinged pulls flip up when pressed at the top.