SPIRIT of the SUWANNEE
Florida’s historic river has tree-lined banks, abundant wildlife and stories to tell
Ipeoplef rivers could speak, the Suwannee River would have a lot to say. It might detail the Timucua who used to inhabit its banks or tell of Spanish explorers who later arrived in the region. The river might share stories of the 19th-century businessmen who settled White Springs or the tourists who came from all around to seek out the sulfur springs.
The Suwannee River, which begins in the Okefenokee Swamp in Fargo, Georgia, winds for more than 270 miles before reaching the Gulf of Mexico. Along the way, its banks contain limestone cliffs and cypress trees, plus abundant wildlife near its blackwater flow.
As the current twists through the Florida Panhandle, the river also finds itself woven into Florida’s history for centuries. People around the world recognize its name, but it wasn’t always that way.
Way Down Upon the Suwannee River
Stephen Foster, a Pittsburgh-based songwriter who lived from July 1826 until January 1864, reportedly never laid eyes on the dark, tannic waters of the Suwannee River. But he immortalized
the waterway when he wrote the song “Old Folks at Home” in 1851.
The composer reportedly needed a river to be the subject of his song and passed when his brother suggested the Yazoo and the Pee Dee rivers. When Suwannee was suggested, he shortened the name to “Swanee” to fit the melody.
”Way down upon the Suwannee River, Far, far away,
There’s where my heart is turning ever, There’s where the old folks stay.”
That’s how the revised version of the song begins after it was amended by the State of Florida in 2008. To this day, it remains the official state song though the original lyrics have been considered racially offensive. Foster first wrote the song in what he imagined to be slave dialect and used the term “darkeys.”
Regardless, the song’s melody is recognized far and wide, and while most people don’t visit North Florida’s river hoping to learn more about Stephen Foster, they do seek it for its notoriety and fame. Although interested visitors can learn more about the songwriter at Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park, which features a museum and a 97-bell carillon tower.
In the late 1800s, White Springs, about 25 miles downstream of the Georgia border, was incorporated as a town and became a bustling tourist destination.
In fact, it may have been Florida’s original tourist destination due to the White Sulphur Springs that attracted visitors for the water’s supposed medicinal qualities. Hotels and shops popped up to support the influx of visitors.
The popularity of mineral springs faded in the 1930s and so did visitation to the town. However, in 1953, the Flor
ida Folk Festival landed at Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park, bringing in cultures from around the state ranging from Native Americans to African Americans to Greek Americans and more.
The annual Memorial Day weekend event was canceled in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but event organizers are working hard to make the 2021 festival one to remember.
Base Camp White Springs
While the popularity of White Springs as a tourism destination has dwindled, the town serves as an excellent base camp for outdoor exploration.
Just a short drive from the town’s historic downtown, Big Shoals State Park contains a stretch of the Suwannee River with rapids that earn a Class III rating (moderately difficult) when the river is between 59 and 61 feet above sea level. These turbulent waters represent the largest whitewater rapids in Florida.
For those who prefer to see this marvel by land or during times when the Suwannee isn’t safely passable, a one-mile trail with yellow blazes takes hikers right to the rapids with views from limestone bluffs that tower 80 feet above the river. It’s also possible to portage around the rapids while paddling.
Within the state park, more than 28 miles of wooded trails provide opportunities for hiking, biking, horseback riding and wildlife viewing.
The Woodpecker Trail comes in the form of a 3.4-mile multipurpose paved path that connects the Big Shoals and Little Shoals entrances to the park.
It’s also possible and common for explorers to set out for multiday camping trips in kayaks or canoes on the Suwannee River. American Canoe Adventures in White Springs has helped support paddling daytrips and overnight excursions since 1995. The shop also provides maps and free advice to those stopping in.
For cyclists, White Springs serves as a good starting point with miles of countryside pavement for road cycling and off-road
trails for mountain biking adrenaline rushes. Recreation on two wheels is supported by the Suwannee Bicycle Association, an organization dedicated to hosting events, maintaining trails and providing resources to cyclists.
Those who prefer to explore on two feet can find portions of the Florida Trail that run right near White Springs and along the banks of the Suwannee River.
Sound Accommodations
Just north of Live Oak,
Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park and Campground is nestled along the scenic sandy banks of the tannic river.
For decades, the park has hosted live music and festivities, most notably Suwannee Hulaween, Suwannee River Jam, the Suwannee Roots Revival, Wanee Music Festival and Suwannee Spring Reunion.
The park has managed to host the occasional live act since the COVID-19 pandemic hit, but while the stages and grassy fields are largely quiet, the park still provides 800 acres of camping and recreational facilities.
Hundreds of RV and tent sites, as well as cabins, await visitors who seek a night under the stars.
Because the park is so large, many guests opt to bring or rent a golf cart on site for a convenient way of transportation. On the grounds, wander under old oak and cypress trees or visit a bat house where small winged mammals live and fly out nightly.
Spirit of the Suwannee also provides campers with a general store, a cafe open select dates, a boat ramp and beach for recreation. On the weekends, the park’s multistory treehouse in a
100-year-old oak tree — the same one featured on DIY Network’s “Treehouse Guys” — is open for tours.
Even if the music park is quiet while live events are on hold, the grounds provide a peaceful place for relaxing by the campfire, sharing stories with good friends and stargazing. It’s just one more gem situated
along the magnificent and storied Suwannee, a river with a name recognized worldwide.
Do you have suggestions for my next destination or just want to get in touch? Find me on Twitter @PConnPie, Instagram @PConnPie or send me an email: pconnolly@orlandosentinel. com.
Visitors to Seminole County’s Black Bear Wilderness Area might be awe-struck when experiencing unique Floridian wildlife but also surprised to encounter some of the most strenuous hiking Central Florida has to offer.
The 7.1-mile Black Bear Wilderness Loop Trail is the only way around the 1,600acre tract of land, and while that distance might not sound like much on a typical flat Florida path, this route can be challenging.
Hikers who visit can expect a full workout when navigating the miles of roots and slippery slopes. Those who make the traverse can reap the rewards while looking out for black bears, wild hogs, alligators and abundant avian residents in the wilderness area.
The trail forms a big loop around the perimeter of the land and can be taken clockwise or counterclockwise. After a short hike from the trailhead, visitors will find a boardwalk that splits off in two directions. Take the left fork to be immersed into a hydric hammock environment with oak trees and sabal palms lining the way.
While gazing up into branches hanging overhead, it’s possible to catch glimpses of small birds perched and chirping. Be sure to keep an eye on the path ahead for snakes and other wildlife.
After several miles, the trail involves slippery slopes which follow the St. Johns River. Here, it’s common to see alligators basking in the sun or waiting for their next meal while waterfowl perch along the banks. At the right time of day, it might be possible to spot opossums, deer, bobcats or otters.
In this particularly wet section of path, numbered boardwalks help recreationists pass over wet prairies and cypress swamps. Near the trail’s halfway point, a primitive campsite is available by reservation only.
When taking the counterclockwise loop, the final stretch of trail takes hikers across a boardwalk and into an open prairie before retreating back into the woods.
Back at the trailhead, enjoy a snack while tired feet take a rest. Hiking at Black Bear Wilderness Area isn’t easy, but it’s worth the trip for all the beauty encountered along the way.
If you go
Location: 5298 Michigan Ave. in Sanford
Hours: Gate open 6 a.m-7:30 p.m. daily (hours vary by season)
Amenities: Boardwalks, benches, hiking trail, interpretive signs, parking, trash cans
Activities: Birding, hiking, wildlife viewing
What to bring: Wear good hiking shoes and be sure to pack plenty of water for the trail. Bug spray may be necessary, as the trail is wet and swampy.
What not to bring:
Alcohol is prohibited on Seminole County’s natural lands. Hunting, swimming, tampering with wildlife, traveling off-trail and fires (except in the campsite) are not permitted.
Pets: Leashed pets are allowed on the trails of Black Bear Wilderness Area.
Pro tips: Be mindful of roots and obstacles while hiking, and it helps to be in good physical shape to take on this trek. Hiking poles may be useful for extra stability. Emergency services are limited on the remote trail, so it’s a good idea to bring a friend along just in case.
More information: 407-665-2211 or seminolecountyfl.gov
Do you have suggestions for my next destination or just want to get in touch? Find me on Twitter @PConnPie, Instagram @PConnPie or send me an email: pconnolly@orlandosentinel.com.
Kissimmee cake designer Elaine Duran is ready to spread some Easter joy as one of the seven competitors in the “Easter Basket Challenge.” The show debuts at 10 p.m. March
1 on Food Network, with all episodes available for streaming on Discovery+ on the same day.
“It was amazing. It was incredible,” said Duran of the “phenomenal” experience. “It was everything I thought it would be and more.”
Viewers can expect glitz, glamour and color from Duran, who is no stranger to food competitions — she’s appeared on TLC’s “The Next Great Baker” and Food Network’s “Cake Wars.”
“The shinier, the better!” she said. “I want life and everything that I do to be happy and to motivate and to inspire ... not only through my flavors but also through my artwork.”
When it comes to ingredients, Duran isn’t afraid to be bold.
“Being Latina, you know, we like to use very daring flavors in our foods, and I think that’s what makes us stand out,” she said. “We have a large Latino demographic here in Florida, and so I know what they like. … I can cater to all the demographics based on the experience that I’ve had.”
Duran said three places have influenced her baking style. She was raised in Philadelphia until age 13 when her family moved to Puerto Rico. From there, they moved to the Orlando area when Duran was 16 years old.
“Being a city girl at a young age and … then being introduced to the island life and having that culture, and then coming here to the Southern life and
being introduced to that culture has made me so well rounded and so experienced in all kinds of colors and flavors and just different mannerisms and traditions,” the 45-year-old said. “Those three experiences ... birthed my sweet culture, Elaine’s culture.”
The Food Network competition — hosted by Sunny Anderson and judged by chefs Jordan Andino and Claudia Sandoval — takes place over five, one-hour episodes as the Easter-obsessed bakers interpret themes and present their confections in the hopes of winning a golden egg filled with $25,000.
For Duran, that prize brings back Easter memories.
“I remember going to my grandma’s house and having Easter egg hunts,” she recalled. “All the kids would look desperately for their favorite Easter egg, especially the golden one.”
Her passion for the holiday also stems from her faith, which kept her strong when she was diagnosed with stage four breast cancer shortly after publishing “You’re Next: Turn Your Disappointment into Destiny” and after finally making it in the cake business. At the same time, her husband, David, also underwent open-heart surgery.
“Just when you think you got over round one, round
two hits you in the face,” she said. “We fought back. We embraced our faith, and by the grace of God and the mercy of God, we are here to tell the story that round two tried to strike us out again, and yet again, God is good, we came out on top.”
Amid the health struggles, Duran let go of her “whole cake life.”
“You’re fighting back tooth and nail. You refuse to give up. You refuse to die,” she said. “Then all of a sudden, I get a second chance. And let me tell you it’s like living again.”
Wanting to reinvent herself after beating the odds, Duran received permission from her doctors to participate in the
“Easter Basket Challenge.”
“I want to show my kids that you gotta believe in yourself. You gotta fight hard for what you want. You can’t give up on your dreams,” she said of the message she hopes to convey to her children Valentino and Natalia. “Until God says, ‘You’re going home,’ you’re still here, so you gotta fight every day.”
The Duran family has always given back to the Central Florida community. They’re involved with the Cure Bowl and the Orlando Sports Foundation, in addition to Duran’s numerous local appearances, such as serving as a celebrity judge with Give Kids the World
Village. Now she said she is “on fire” to keep moving forward.
“I’m on fire to give back to the community. I’m on fire to give back to my children. I’m on fire to create my legacy again. I’m on fire to make my business be the best that it’s ever been. I’m on fire to make my mark,” she said. “My goal has always been to be a pillar in the community, and so, I feel like I got that chance to do that again.”
Duran hopes to continue to motivate others by offering life coaching services through her website everythingelaine.com.
“I want to inspire people to aspire to reach for their biggest dreams before they expire at whatever time that is,” she said. “I appreciate the Food Network for allowing me to have this opportunity because … I’ve been given a platform of sweets and encouragement, and so, I just really want to share that with the world.”