Morimoto has pan-Asian twist
When Masaharu Morimoto opened Morimoto Asia in Disney Springs last September, one of the most inventive forces in Asian cuisine entered the Central Florida dining scene.
The master chef’s lure goes beyond his reputation as being one of Food Network’s most formidable Iron Chefs. His seamless integration of Western and Japanese ingredients has long been a hallmark at his other high-energy restaurants that span the globe from Honolulu to Mumbai. Of all the culinary star power in this region, Morimoto’s was arguably the most anticipated.
The massive, two-story dining room features glittering 20-foot-long chandeliers, private dining spaces, a second-level sushi bar, the Shanghai-influenced Forbidden lounge with a separate exterior entrance and a takeout window for street food.
The pan-Asian menu, a first for Morimoto, is as intriguing as the venue itself. With flavors from across Asia — emphasizing China, South Korea, Japan and Thailand — there is something for every palate and budget.
We took two approaches with starters. We played it safe and tried edamame with sea salt ($6) and crab Rangoon ($10) with apricot sweet chili sauce (predictable and filling). We got a little more adventurous with hamachi tacos ($12 for two) with yellowtail sashimi, yuzu kosho guacamole and lime (buttery and sublime).
On that first visit we explored more flavors and textures with small plates. Presented in a steamer basket, the kakuni pork bao ($10 for two) were billowy steamed buns stuffed with pork belly, lettuce and mildly spicy mayo.
Our spicy yellowtail ($12) and salmon ($10) sushi came with scallions and white or brown rice.
Our spare ribs ($14 and up) were judiciously covered with hoisin and sweet chili glaze.
The sweetness of the L.A. barbecue kalbi ($28) paired well with the spiciness of the kimchee. In addition, the beef short ribs faired nicely with the gochujang sauce, a pungent fermented Ko- rean condiment made from red chili, rice, fermented soybeans and salt.
The orange tempura chicken breast ($20) and Chinese broccoli were tossed in a hot wok with a tempered Florida orange sauce. It was an elegant elevation for a straightforward preparation.
The highlights of both visits were the Peking duck ($48) and braised black cod ($28).
The carved, house-roasted whole duck came with steamed flour pancakes and an apricotsweet chili and hoisin miso.
The cod with a sweet ginger soy glaze was a study in balance and technique. The creamy and juicy fish was perfectly cooked, and the topping gave it an earthy finish.
I enjoyed both visits, although service was woefully hot and cold during one dinner. However, I was not blown away. The food is good, some of it quite excellent, but chefs such as Morimoto are hoisted to such a high pedestal our anticipation tends to prep our palates for an ethereal experience.
I look forward to returning. I’ll head to the sushi bar, order a Morimotini (a refreshing vodka and sake take garnished with cucumber) and enjoy the culinary artistry up close.