Watch moss to stop plant decline
Question: I am getting conflicting answers concerning ball moss in our crape myrtle trees. Some say it can harm the trees and others say it is not a problem. What should I do?
Answer: Both ball and Spanish moss just hang around taking water and nutrients from the air and decomposing organic matter. They are types of bromeliads known as tillandsias. Studies have shown they take nothing from the trees but use them for support.
Sometimes ball and Spanish moss can cause plant decline. If the trees or shrubs are not growing as vigorously as they should be, then these tillandsias can become very competitive for foliage sites. When this occurs, it is best to remove a portion of the ball and Spanish moss to allow the trees or shrubs to make needed growth.
Q: Our Meyer lemon has been growing in a pot for five years and only produces a few fruit. Would it be best planted in the ground?
A: Citrus never seems to be as productive in containers due to cramped root systems and possibly limited care. In-ground planting may be the best answer if you cannot provide the more intense maintenance needed for container culture. Your tree can still be happy and productive in an extra large container of 50 or so gallons.
Constant care is needed when plants grow in containers. This includes watering to prevent the soil from drying and applying a slowrelease fertilizer for fruit trees following the container feeding instructions. It is also best to apply a minor nutrient spray and insecticide at each flush of growth as with in-ground plantings.
Q: My parents bought a new home and found amaryllis flowering in several areas of the landscape. Do they continue to grow throughout the year and what is the care?
A: Amaryllis have been beautiful this spring and it is a wonderful surprise to find they have been added to the home site by a previous owner. These bulb type plants are very carefree. Obviously they are happy where they are growing, so unless the spot is needed for another planting or a landscape project, leave them in place.
Good care includes keeping the soil moist during the growing season and a bit drier late fall through winter. Apply a slow-release fertilizer labeled for flowers once in March, May and August as instructed on the label. Amaryllis keep their green leaves spring through fall and during a mild winter. Frosts and freezes often damage the leaves that can be removed as needed but the bulbs rebound with flowers and foliage each spring.
Q: A magnolia tree in our yard has gray spots on the leaves and many leaves are turning yellow and dropping. What is the problem?
A: No problem here, just normal leaf loss for this time of the year, plus some gray algal-and-lichen-caused leaf spots that are normal too. At this time of the year southern magnolia trees with the normally dark, shiny green leaves may look a bit sick. Some years the leaf loss is more dramatic and kind of scary. But don’t worry, if the tree is otherwise healthy, it pops out new foliage and large fragrant flowers in a few weeks.
Algal-and-lichen-forming leaf spots and other yellow to brown spots are common on the aging leaves. The spots don’t seem to affect plant health and are normally
ignored. If too numerous or the tree is not as vigorous as you like, use a copper fungicide to control the spots, following label instructions. Also, with less vigorous trees, apply a landscape fertilizer in March and June and make sure the soil is moist during dry weather.
Q: Several of my azaleas appear to have died back with branches declining but there is new growth from the ground. What should I do?
A: Break out the hand pruners and loppers to cut the declining branches back to healthy wood or to the ground. You can be encouraged by the new growth from near the ground at the base of the plants but help with the recovery by providing special care.
After pruning, apply one of the new systemic fungicides found in most product lines. Then apply an azaleacamellia fertilizer to the entire planting. Keep the soil moist during any dry weather. Azaleas are shallow rooted and suffer from a lack of water. Also, apply a mulch over the root systems. Use one of the smaller size pine barks that can help keep the soil acidic, which is needed for good azalea growth.
Q: I lost my citrus trees due to the greening disease. Is there any citrus that is immune to this disease and what do you recommend?
A: Regretfully all citrus are affected by this bacterial disease that is spread by an insect known as the Asian psyllid. Planting any of the citrus would be risky even if you want to assume an extra special care program that includes enhanced feeding and spraying. The state and federal departments of agriculture are working hard on controls for citrus greening that include sprays and new varieties but nothing looks encouraging for home citrus production at this time. It is probably best to delay new plantings until better trees or controls are available.