Hemisphere: Tastes from all over the globe
Following an extensive renovation, Hemisphere in the Hyatt Regency Orlando International Airport has a new menu that replaces its steakhouse roots with global flavors and small plates.
What I would try a second time
The varied small-plates menu makes it hard to want to repeat any particular main dish, so I would opt for a dessert. The saffron arborio kheer ($10), an Indian rice pudding flavored with the floral-tasting spice, wasn’t as runny as what most people envision for this classic dish. Chopped pistachio nuts encrusted the top and cardamom fudge lined the bottom.
What I didn’t like
Hemisphere’s take on a pork tamale ($14.95) fell short. The ingredients were there — the masa (dough made with corn), red chile sauce and tender pork — but the flavors were missing. The bland masa had the consistency of mashed potatoes. I wanted a bit more smokiness with the dish, but instead I tasted some acidity from the red onion and the guasacaca (a citrus-based Venezuelan sauce).
What I would put on Instagram
The classic full table of food competes with the vista at Hemisphere, which is in the hotel attached to the airport. The east runways are in full view of the restaurant’s expansive windows.
Hemisphere
Where: On the ninth floor of the Hyatt Regency Orlando International Airport hotel, 9300 Jeff Fuqua Blvd. in Orlando
When: Breakfast 5:30-11 a.m. Monday through Friday and 5:30 a.m.-noon Saturday and Sunday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Cost: $8.95-$44.95
Beverages: Beer, wine, soda, cocktails Wine by the glass: Yes Attire: Casual Extras: Dining with a view, good for groups
Noise level: Low Wheelchair access: Fair Credit: Visa, American Express, Mastercard and Discover
Call: 407-825-1234 Online: Facebook
Other eats
Caesar salad took on a different look with Hemisphere’s chipotle version ($9.95). The chipotle-spiked dressing gave some spice and smokiness to the salad of romaine hearts, celery leaves, rich manchego cheese, corn kernels and almonds.
Two octopus tentacles ($12.95) were paired with blistered tomatoes, grilled zucchini and a balsamic vinaigrette drizzle. The octopus wasn’t as charred as I like, but it was fork tender.
The Wagyu beef sliders ($11.95) were a little more indulgent with velvety truffle cheese fondue over top of the fat patties.
How I was treated
Hemisphere’s menu needs a little explanation. Our server explained the dishes to us without making us feel ignorant. Still, she got a little behind with timing at our table — plates stacked up and it took a little time to order our dessert.
My next visit
With an eye to the seasonal, Hemisphere’s menu changes, making it hard to envision what I would try dinner wise next time. I’ll probably opt for breakfast instead.
For bar-hoppers
Hemisphere offers wines by the glass and bottle. Dispensers let diners serve themselves 2- to 8-ounce pours of select wines. I was disappointed in the beer selection, which leaned heavily toward macro beer. Cocktails are also available.
For those with special diets
The small-plates menu includes several vegetarian offerings. A little editing on a few of them will render them meat-free for vegans.