Rhubarb compote stands out in this classic layered dessert
After enjoying a hearty Memorial Day menu at the Batali household, we always crave something light and fruity for dessert. This summer, I’m bringing back a classic recipe that perfectly caps off my al fresco meal: rhubarb compote with crushed biscotti and honey-scented yogurt.
I’ve always loved the tangy, sweet taste of rhubarb in pies or on ice cream, even raw with a sprinkling of flaky sea salt. It joins avocados and tomatoes in the “is it a fruit or vegetable?” debate on “The Chew,” but there is no argument against rhubarb making an absolutely killer compote. Once you discard the leafy green ends, chop the deep fuchsia stalks into small cubes and then simmer with sugar and lemon. Watching the mixture thicken into a jamlike consistency takes me right back to my childhood summers when my mom, siblings and I made countless pints of jam together.
At my first restaurant, Po, we served this as a layered parfait with the cookies sprinkled on top, but the compote can become filling for pies, syrup for pancakes or a sauce for a simple cake. Store-bought biscotti work well, but if you up the ante and make the cookies, you’ll yield an even more delicious result. When it comes time to layer, do so with a gentle hand to enhance the contrast of colors and trifecta of creamy, crunchy and cool textures. Serve immediately, and don’t be surprised when it disappears before your eyes.