Orlando Sentinel

NONNO’S SERVES UP simple, old-school Italiam comfort food, Lauren Delgado writes.

- By Lauren Delgado Staff Writer ldelgado@orlandosen­tinel.com

Tucked into a strip mall along busy State Road 436, Nonno’s Italian Restaurant can be easy to miss as you travel through Altamonte Springs. Once you get a little closer, however, you can’t miss the small dining room packed with diners.

Italian food is hard to pass up — especially when it embraces old-school, simple comfort food, like at Nonno’s.

What I would try a second time

Nonno’s bruschetta ($8) was piled high on spongy chunks of crostini, the ideal light appetizer. The diced tomato was wellseason­ed with garlic, basil and a sprinkling of Romano cheese.

What I didn’t like

All of the lemon flavoring seemed concentrat­ed in the chicken piccata — but not the limoncello cake ($5). The dessert landed more on the sweet side instead of the acidic.

What I would put on Instagram

A plate full of pasta and a full glass of red wine is an appealing photo — and meal.

Other eats

Dinner entrees come with bread and a soup or salad — quite the deal. My guest and I both opted for the house salad, a heaping bowl of lettuce, tomato and red onion.

We did our best with our entrees following our appetizer feast.

The piccata featured thin chicken fillets that were sauteed to a light crisp. Fresh lemon juice, capers and white wine merged into a deliciousl­y bright, pungent sauce.

The Gnocchi del Nonno ($15) featured the pillowy pasta baked under layers of tangy tomato sauce along with Romano and mozzarella cheeses. Add two well-packed meatballs ($4) nearly the size of tennis balls and the comfortfoo­d coma was imminent.

How I was treated

In the middle of the dinner rush, our server handled herself well. She kept our meal moving but didn’t lose her friendline­ss.

My next visit

A lunch of spaghetti carbonara (think a cream sauce with plenty of prosciutto) and tiramisu sounds like a delicious meal for the weekend.

For bar-hoppers

A small menu of Italian and California­n wines along with domestic and imported beers are offered at Nonno’s to pair with your Italian repast.

For those with special diets

Nonno’s offers several meat-free appetizers or entrees, but not many vegetarian or vegan proteins.

 ?? LAUREN DELGADO/STAFF ?? Nonno's Italian Restaurant serves old-school Italian favorites such as gnocchi.
LAUREN DELGADO/STAFF Nonno's Italian Restaurant serves old-school Italian favorites such as gnocchi.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States