Orlando Sentinel

The burgers top the tacos at Four Rebels

- Lauren Delgado,

Four Rebels American Taco Kitchen & Bar joined Orlando’s booming taco scene a few months ago. It faces some stiff competitio­n not only from the city at large — but from its own neighbors in and around the Mills 50 neighborho­od.

What I would try a second time

As its name suggests, the old-school burger ($10) came with classic toppings of lettuce, tomato and cheddar cheese. The patty itself was juicy, well-seasoned and perfectly cooked. It did not come with french fries, so we opted for the gooey, spicy chorizo macaroni and cheese ($5).

What I didn’t like

Four Rebels’ taco menu stands out in a sea of traditiona­l taco joints with its creative ingredient combinatio­ns. Just look at the ingredient lineup of the tacos we tried: the Buffalo Chicken ($4) filled with a few chunks of chicken tenders covered in buffalo sauce and topped with blue cheese and carrotcele­ry slaw; and the Po' Boy ($5) lined with small fried shrimp covered in remoulade and shredded romaine.

The scant ingredient­s didn’t sit well in the stiff, cold flour and corn tortillas. We fared better with the KFT — Kentucky Fried Taco ($4) filled with tasty fried chicken, creamy coleslaw and mashed potatoes and gravy; and the chorizo street taco that came simply dressed with onion and cilantro.

What I would put on Instagram

Head to the rooftop dining area after 6 p.m. to catch a sunset backdrop for your food and drinks.

Other eats

Appetizerw­ise, the buffalo chicken wings ($6) were well-sauced and crispy. The elote street corn ($5), another starter, came drizzled with crema fresca and sprinkled with queso fresco. I wanted a bit more char on the halved corn ears.

Four Rebels serves some more substantia­l entrees if you’re feeling peckish. The fork-tender braised short rib ($15) was accompanie­d by mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts dotted with queso fresco. Au jus added some extra savoriness to the dish.

How I was treated

Our starters came with the main meal during both of our visits — leaving us without food or service for long periods of time.

My next visit

I’m avoiding the tacos for another burger: the hangover ($12). It’s adorned with a fried egg, bacon, caramelize­d onions and cheddar cheese.

For bar-hoppers

Special food and drink deals are a daily occurrence at Four Rebels on top of a daily happy hour from 4-7 p.m.

For those with special diets

Vegetarian-friendly proteins aren’t plentiful on the menu. Four Rebels does allow diners to switch out beef for veggie patties on its burger menu with a $2 discount.

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 ?? LAUREN DELGADO /STAFF ?? Four Rebels American Taco Kitchen & Bar serves creative American cuisine inspired tacos as well as street tacos.
LAUREN DELGADO /STAFF Four Rebels American Taco Kitchen & Bar serves creative American cuisine inspired tacos as well as street tacos.

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