Copacabana: Cuban comfort in Altamonte
Copacabana Cuban Cafe brought a new spot for islands eats to Mount Dora about 9 years ago — and fairly recently did the same in Altamonte Springs.
Set in a shopping center, the new location doesn’t have the same island feel as the original — but the quality of the Cuban comfort food is the same.
What I would try a second time
The perfectly seasoned vaca frita ($13.25), or fried flank steak, was easily shreddable with a fork. I particularly liked the lime on the steak, which added a bright tartness to the rich meat. The traditional fried onion slices were missing on Copcabana’s version, replaced by what I assume is an extra douse of garlicky marinade.
The accompanying black beans had the creamy consistency I was looking for, but not the almost meaty flavor. I chose the white rice and sweet plantains — but yellow rice and fried plantains are also an option.
What I didn’t like
Copacabana’s picadillo ($12.25) nearly dripped off my guest’s plate, it was so runny. Worse, the creole sauce didn’t have that classic balance of tart and savory — it was just all tomato.
What I would put on Instagram
My nearly dinnerplatelength steak made it onto my Instagram feed. Who doesn’t like giant food?
Other eats
We picked over a free basket of hot, buttery toasted Cuban bread before our mammoth sample platter ($14.25) arrived.
A nub of ground beef was well-packed in the papa rellena (a breaded mashed potato ball). We fared better with the three croquetas de jamon, cylinder-shaped breaded and fried ground ham, and the corn tamale, which had chunks of pork jutting out. The two empanadas both had tasty fillings (one chicken and one beef ), but the flour shell was hard and unappealing.
How I was treated
Our meal took a while to find its way to our table. Our brusque server offered no explanation — and little else to our experience.
My next visit
A lunch visit may be in order. I spotted one of my favorite Cuban dishes on the lunch menu that isn’t in the dinner lineup: arroz con pollo ($9.95), or rice with chicken (and olives, red peppers and a creole sauce).
For bar-hoppers
Order one of Copcabana’s cocktails. You just can’t go wrong with a mojito, rum and coke (Cuba Libre) or another rum drink.
Wines by the glass and bottle are available, as well as a few macro brews (think Corona, Stella, Miller Lite).
For those with special diets
A few vegetarian dishes are on the menu — but vegans should verify that certain items (like the Cuban bread) aren’t made with animal products.