Garp & Fuss: Varied menu, lovely environs
Garp & Fuss feels set apart from the hubbub of Park Avenue’s restaurant scene.
Part of that is its location in the Hidden Garden courtyard, while the other part is its curious menu that spans cuisines and price points.
There’s no real pinpointing a focus at the restaurant.
The restaurant’s name stems from family nicknames for chef-owner Liz Zucco’s sisters Alyssa (Garp) and Amanda (Fuss). Alyssa resembled the baby from the movie “The World According to Garp” as an infant, while Amanda was … well … a fussy baby.
What I would try a second time
The Garp ($14), the restaurant’s take on Chicago’s Italian beef sandwich, was packed (almost bursting) with thin strips of seasoned roast beef. Homemade hot giardiniera, a pickled relish typically made of cauliflower, carrots, celery and peppers, supplied some light tartness to this meaty dish. We opted to get the au jus on the side along with the giardiniera, but soon dumped the cup over the ’wich.
What I didn’t like
When you list “magic” as an ingredient for your mac and cheese ($8), I expect otherworldly. Instead, the mini cast-iron skillet was filled with the usual.
What I would put on Instagram
If you visited the restaurant that previously held the space, The Bistro on Park Avenue, you remember the space’s beauty. Garp & Fuss looks a little difference, but the loveliness — especially in the atrium — remains. Set up a photo right, and you will have a nice backdrop for your food and drink.
Other eats
Silky housemade ricotta cheese was a highlight of the Mangia! appetizer ($8). We had a meatball ($3) added to the pool of marinara sauce. Toasted slices of baguette went for a swim in the sauce.
On the hotter side of the appetizers, we doused our tempura-fried buffalo cauliflower ($10) with medium buffalo sauce. It has an addictive crunch that won over my vegetable-phobic guest.
The Schnitz ($17) had all the hallmarks of a classic chicken schnitzel: chicken breast pounded to uniform thinness with a crisp breading on the outside. Unfortunately, without the accompaniments, the chicken itself was fairly flavorless. Shredded Parmesan cheese, arugula and a gooey fried egg make the dish a bit more modern and light, as opposed to its classic potato side. A smear of sharp mustard under this pile of food added much-needed acidity.
How I was treated
Distracted service marked our visit. Our meal was still delivered at a regular clip, however.
My next visit
Garp & Fuss’ intimate bar area seems like an ideal spot to order a few appetizers and a drink or two.
For bar-hoppers
Beer fans will be happy with Garp & Fuss’ craft lineup. There’s a smaller wine selection and tiny signature cocktail selection.
For those with special diets
Meat-free dishes are available, but vegan diners might have a tough time thanks to an abundance of cheese and a lack of meat-free protein.