Orlando Sentinel

Enzo’s petite Italian menu is just delightful

- By Lauren Delgado ldelgado@ orlandosen­tinel.com

Enzo’s Hideaway feels a world away from its nearby sister restaurant, Maria & Enzo’s, in Disney Springs. This is thanks to its location off the main drag of Disney Springs in a faux old rum runner tunnel and prohibitio­n-style cocktails.

What I would try a second time

The bistecca pizzaiola ($43) was a hefty plate. A perfectly grill-marked hefty slab of sirloin steak was topped with a mix of tomato and capers. Accompanyi­ng the meat were vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, fingerling potatoes, cauliflowe­r and broccoli rabe.

What I didn’t like

About five medium shrimp topped the spiralshap­ed noodles of my guest’s vesuvio pasta ($33). The spicy tomato sauce indicated by the name and the menu didn’t have even a hint of tongue-tingling heat.

What I would put on Instagram

Two words: gelato sundae. Enzo’s Hideway scoops out three types: a hazelnut, a cannoli and classic vanilla-chocolate combinatio­n.

We couldn’t resist the cannoli concoction ($14). The gelato itself had the powdery sweetness of the classic filling that goes into the crisp cannoli shell — four large shards of which accompanie­d other toppings, such as chocolate sauce, candied orange chunks, crushed pistachio and tufts of whipped cream.

Other eats

Starting our meal was the verdure agro dulce ($13), a plate of yellow and purple cauliflowe­r, romanesco, green beans, pine nuts and golden raisins sitting in a pool of a sweet vinegary sauce.

We also went for a meaty appetizer — the polpettine ($15) a simple bowl of two tender, well-packed meatballs in a standard marinara sauce and creamy polenta.

How I was treated

A server along with her counterpar­ts made sure our dining needs were met.

My next visit

Despite Enzo’s lovely ambiance, the eatery doesn’t quite feel like a speakeasy, thanks to the large dining room (and mammoth directiona­l signs outside). I’d go back for a drink or two at the bar — and some appetizers.

For bar-hoppers

The restaurant’s prohibitio­n-era theming is best exemplifie­d in its cocktail menu, while its Italian roots mean a lot of vino.

Craft beer fans have nothing to fear, however. Enzo’s draught and beer selection more than suffices.

For those with special diets

Gluten-free pasta is available — along with a request on the menu for diners to talk to their servers about vegetarian options.

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 ?? LAUREN DELGADO/STAFF ?? Enzo’s Hideaway’s cannoli gElato sundae feature cannoli gelato, pieces of cannoli shell, chocolate sauce, candied orange chunks, crushed pistachio and whipped cream.
LAUREN DELGADO/STAFF Enzo’s Hideaway’s cannoli gElato sundae feature cannoli gelato, pieces of cannoli shell, chocolate sauce, candied orange chunks, crushed pistachio and whipped cream.

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