Trentodoc: Reasonably priced bubbly
sparkling wine of his own. You could say that this led to the birth of modern-day sparkling wine in Trentino (the southern half of the Trentino-Alto Adige region), and today, Ferrari’s namesake winery continues to thrive.
Sparkling wines from this area received their DOC status in 1993. Of course, high-quality sparkling wines were being produced before then, but since the wines received official DOC status, the quality has consistently gone up across the board, so much so that a local governing organization took the words “Trento” and “DOC” and combined them to come up with a single word that would make their wines more recognizable to consumers. It’s pronounced just the way it looks. Today, Trentodoc wines are among Italy’s, and the world’s, finest sparkling wines.
The Trento DOC covers all of Trentino, just as the Trentino DOC does. The difference is, the Trento DOC includes sparkling wine only, and those wines are made in the traditional Champagne method, via secondary fermentation in the bottle, which Italians call “metodo classico.” Today about 50 wineries carry the Trentodoc logo on their labels. Because the word is meant to create brand recognition — the campaign is still in force — we consumers get to enjoy reasonable prices. It’s not as if Trentodoc wines fly below the radar — or that they are a steal. But they are not household names in the United States — and that reality is reflected nicely in many of their bottle prices. Good, reliable Trentodoc wines can often be had for somewhere around $20.
Using mostly chardonnay and pinot noir, with pinot blanc and pinot meunier allowed, the sparkling whites and rosés of Trento offer bright acidity and heady notes of everything from bread crust, wildflowers and stone fruits to tropical fruits and vanilla. These are wines that, like many other high-quality sparkling wines, will pair well with a wide array of foods and will be a treat to drink on their own — as apertifs or celebration-enhancers. Despite their crisp acidity, there is a softness to many of these wines.
Trentodoc wines labeled brut have undergone a minimum of 15 months of aging. The next category up is “millesimato,” which have been aged for 24 months. At the top of the aging hierarchy are riserva wines, which have been aged for at least 36 months. Riserva wines can be pricey, but the majority of Trentodoc wines are immensely affordable considering the quality they offer.
The following are notes from a recent tasting of Trentodoc sparkling wines. They are listed in ascending order according to price and style (white followed by rosé). More than half of the dozen wines listed here retail for $23 or less.
With notes of fennel, apricot, peach, vanilla and nuts, this wine’s lively bubbles give it a creamy mouthfeel. $18 Vanilla, apricot and bread crust lead to tropical fruit and a hint of lime on the finish. $18
A 75/25 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, this bone-dry wine brims with apple, pear, anise and pleasantly tart citrus. $19
Bright stone fruits, ripe apple, herbs, vanilla and a streak of citrus leads to a lingering toasted-nut finish. $21
This lively, refreshing wine, made of 100 percent chardonnay, is full of lemon, lime, apple and toasty bread crust. $22
Gooseberry, kiwi and other tropical fruits are followed by stone fruits, lime and wet-stone minerality in this 70/30 chardonnay-pinot noir blend. $23
This creamy yet refreshing 60/40 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir offers up vanilla, nuts, apple skin and bright tropical fruits. $26
Floral, with notes of peach, anise and pear, this lip-smacking wine was soft and velvety, wrapped in toasted bread crust. $27
Maple fudge and honey aromas led to apple skin, ripe apricot, steely minerality, mouthfilling softness and a distinct, nutty finish. $30 Made of pinot noir and chardonnay, this one is full of strawberry, herbal notes, ripe cherry, lively creamy bubbles and lip-smacking freshness. $18
Strawberry, raspberry and apple mingle with nuts and a streak of citrus in this 50/50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. $26
Fennel and herbal notes commingle with strawberry, tart cherry, raspberry and a touch of salinity in this fresh and lively wine. $36