Man-made Czech waterways help save Christmas delicacy

KRCIN, Czech Republic — Czechs will have to pay more for their traditional Christmas delicacy after a serious drought devastated the carp population.

The drought overheated and dried out ponds, sucking oxygen from them and drastically reducing numbers of the fish in most parts of the country.

But the situation was different in the southern Bohemia region near the border with Austria, which is considered a carp haven. The region also suffered from the drought, but a network of about 500 carp ponds interconnected with man-made canals ensured adequate living conditions for the fish.

As fishermen start the practice of catching carp for Christmas markets, here is a look at the annual tradition and the effects the drought has had on it. ponds was a key factor this autumn for the (increased) price,” said Josef Malecha, chief executive of Trebon Fisheries, a major freshwater fish producer in the country and the European Union.

The company estimates its fish production this year will be similar to previous years, about 3,527 tons.

Carp account for more than 90 percent of the catch. The rest include pike, catfish, pike perch, amur (grass carp) and tench. They are exported to many European countries.

The drought affected the ability of the fish to gain weight, Malecha said.

“So, we had to fix it by using more food (grain),” he said. “And the food was more expensive because the farmers suffered from the drought as well.”

The Czech Republic is a country of meat lovers who mostly overlook fish for the rest of the year, but nobody can imagine Christmas without carp.

Live carp are sold in street markets just before the holiday and turned into fish soup and fried in bread crumbs to serve on Christmas Eve.

Some lucky ones are given to children to play with in their bathtubs and later are released back into rivers or ponds.

Carp are derided in some parts of the world, such as Australia and the U.S., where the fish pose threats to native fish species and ecosystems.

But Czechs adore the carp, which is said to bring good fortune — but only if you keep some of their scales in your wallet.

It was freezing after dawn on a recent day when dozens of fishermen in dark green waterproofs wade into the frigid waters, using a centuries-old technique of slowly scooping up fish from the Krcin pond with nets before sorting them manually and placing them in containers.

About 77 tons of fish were expected to be extracted from the pond, which is named after Jakub Krcin, a key fish pond builder who was instrumental in completing the southern region’s waterway network during the second half of the 16th century.