Orlando Sentinel

Try the koshari on Makani’s patio

Amy Drew Thompson: Egyptian dining and hookahs on I-Drive.

- Amy Drew Thompson OS Foodie

It was the most glittering ghost town I’d ever seen, a bright, gleaming restaurant anticipati­ng diners who would seemingly never come. Gold accents, ornate chandelier­s, neatly set tables beneath — all empty. It looked like the start of a cautionary Halloween tale. Or perhaps its denouement.

This emptiness, however, was not a reflection on Makani’s food or vibe or propensity for ostentatio­us light fixtures.

It was because everyone was out on the patio.

Now, it’s true that Makani, a new Egyptian venue on I-Drive, bills itself with the tagline, “Good Mood Food & Hookah,” but half the folks in the space around me (most notably the family with a stroller) weren’t smoking the shisha at all.

The patio has festive Middle Eastern music. It has the narrow, cozy feel of urban al fresco spaces where close quarters are simply the norm of the culture. It has a staggering view of the towering StarFlyer — so close you can hear the delighted screams of its passengers. But here, you’re not contemplat­ing your life choices whilst whizzing around a 450-foot phallic symbol on the end of a chain.

Here, the big decision is hummus or mombar ($12.99).

I went with the latter. It was the simple descriptio­n that lured me: cow intestines stuffed with a rice mixture and deep fried in oil.

I know. I know. Some of you are reading that and having an equal and opposite reaction, so let me write my own Makani menu copy for you: Mombar is what happens when

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 ?? AMY DREW THOMPSON/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? I’ve got your comfort food right here, baby. Koshari is an amalgam of lentils, rice and pasta with chick peas, herbs and a rich and wonderfull­y chunky tomato sauce.
AMY DREW THOMPSON/ORLANDO SENTINEL I’ve got your comfort food right here, baby. Koshari is an amalgam of lentils, rice and pasta with chick peas, herbs and a rich and wonderfull­y chunky tomato sauce.
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