Orlando Sentinel

Vanishing portions

Orlando restaurant­s struggle again as coronaviru­s cases grow

- By Austin Fuller

As restaurant­s across the state opened up again and customers began to feel hope and relief, sales at Hawkers Asian Street Fare started to pick up.

“I never thought I’d celebrate being down 20%,” said Kaleb Harrell, CEO of the Orlandobas­ed chain of nine restaurant­s across Florida, Georgia and

North Carolina.

But the improvemen­ts near the end of May to the middle of June have since vanished for Hawkers and other Orlando restaurant­s as coronaviru­s cases across Florida skyrocket, making the state one of the U.S. hotspots of the pandemic.

“Everybody started to realize this is going to be around for a little while,” Harrell said.

Hawkers, where sales are back down to half of what they were a year ago, is getting creative to try to return to profitabil­ity during the pandemic.

“I’m positive that we’re going to see a deteriorat­ion in June,” San Diego-based restaurant analyst John Gordon said of restaurant sales for that month. He added the trend will continue in July.

Hawkers looks to create new revenue

After reopening its Florida and Georgia dining rooms on May 18 and its North Carolina dining rooms on May 25, Hawkers managed to break even the week of June 8, according to spokeswoma­n Esther McIlvain.

The restaurant chain’s weekly cash loss has since fallen off again to $100,000 a week, Harrell said.

Hawkers, which has already spent about $3 million in a federal Paycheck Protection Program loan to keep its 500 workers employed, is planning for its commissary kitchen that makes

spices and sauces for its restaurant­s to sell them wholesale or at grocery stores, Harrell said.

Hawkers also has a wood shop where restaurant furniture is built, which could turn to business-to-business opportunit­ies, potentiall­y even selling partitions it manufactur­es to keep diners socially distanced at other restaurant­s.

Gordon described the moves as “gravy.”

“They just have to do it, and they have to have a sales relationsh­ip,” he said. “It’s better than just sitting around and sending people home early.”

Harrell said he has no doubt Hawkers will get through the pandemic and hopes they can continue growing after it by taking advantage of real estate opportunit­ies. The chain’s planned restaurant­s in Nashville as well as Bethesda, Maryland, are still slated to open this year.

“I think if you look at it tactically, it’s day to day,” Harrell said. “I have an enormous amount of faith in our team.”

‘Nothing makes sense anymore’

Hawkers isn’t the only Central Florida restaurant reporting business slumping again.

In downtown Sanford, the popular German restaurant Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Café said business for the week ending May 24 was only down about 2% compared with last year. But that figure dropped to down about 15% for the week ending July 5, owner Christina Hollerbach said.

Her business, which received a $300,000 PPP loan, was wrapping up an expansion when the pandemic hit and recently opened a new upstairs area that offers rooftop dining.

But with no city sponsored event on the Fourth of July to bring people to the lakefront business district, Hollerbach called the holiday the “worst Saturday in the history of Saturdays.”

“I can look at numbers and I can make projection­s and best guesses, nothing makes sense anymore,” Hollerbach said. “My whole goal every day is taking care of the people that are part of my team.”

Hollerbach points toward news media attention to the growing coronaviru­s numbers as well as a confused public, particular­ly after Florida banned serving alcohol at bars but not restaurant­s, as reasons for the slump.

“People think there’s no alcohol on premise, period,” she said.

She also was disappoint­ed that the state’s Department of Business and Profession­al Regulation announced the shift on Twitter.

“I never thought I would see the day that a Tweet could un-employ hundreds of thousands of people in an instant,” Hollerbach said.

Takeout stays hot

Nashville-style chicken food truck Chicken Fire, which began serving out of the À La Cart food truck park at the start of the year before moving to outside East End Market this month, is seeing a different story unfold.

While sales were down 15% to 20% in March compared with February, June’s numbers were up 70% compared to that month, owner Kwame Boakye said.

“June was an absolute breakout month for us,” Boakye said. “We’re known now as a takeout spot.”

Boakye attributes this success to both being a food truck operation as well as fried chicken being a good fit for takeout.

“I think being takeout focused is the way to go right now,” he said.

At its height, Chicken Fire, which Boakye said received about $3,000 in PPP funds, had eight employees, but now has four after people left on their own at different points during the pandemic. He said the food truck is hiring to return its staff to eight to 10 employees.

He also wants to bring Chicken Fire to a brickand-mortar location as soon as possible but said he has had issues in finding a space as landlords are tentative about bringing in a new business because of the uncertaint­y caused by the pandemic.

Darrin McNatt, a 61-year-old Orlando resident, was visiting Chicken Fire at East End Market with his friend Arvin Blank, 63, also of Orlando. The two, both wearing masks as they sat outside, have returned to dining out.

“I don’t even think about it much because I think most of the restaurant­s are doing what they can do,” McNatt said. “I feel very comfortabl­e when they’re enforcing the ‘you can’t come in without a mask [rule].‘”

Hawkers CEO Harrell, meanwhile, said he has seen consistenc­y in takeout business.

“Through the ups and downs, we haven’t really seen that much change in takeout,” Harrell said. “The crowd that’s getting takeout is pretty steady.”

 ?? RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? Jonathan Ysea and Klarissa Hopton sit in the patio as Christina Bishop brings in their order at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando on July 9.
RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL Jonathan Ysea and Klarissa Hopton sit in the patio as Christina Bishop brings in their order at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando on July 9.
 ?? RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? Alex Wilkinson, left, and Michael Durant get food from Christina Bishop as they have lunch at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando.
RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL Alex Wilkinson, left, and Michael Durant get food from Christina Bishop as they have lunch at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando.
 ?? JOE BURBANK/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? Owner Christina Hollerbach readied her restaurant, Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Cafe, in May for the reopening of its dining room in downtown Sanford.
JOE BURBANK/ORLANDO SENTINEL Owner Christina Hollerbach readied her restaurant, Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Cafe, in May for the reopening of its dining room in downtown Sanford.
 ?? RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? To help slow the spread of COVID-19, partitions separate customers having lunch at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando on July 9.
RICARDO RAMIREZ BUXEDA/ORLANDO SENTINEL To help slow the spread of COVID-19, partitions separate customers having lunch at Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Orlando on July 9.

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