We could all use a little Island Time
Grab some in Thornton Park
Early dinner, early in the week. The recipe bodes pretty well for spaciousness at Island Time, though one could always sit outside. The colorful cottage — its menu a mix of Caribbean and Southern American — has the best “out front” of active Washington Street’s cluster of bars and bistros, especially these days.
There’s more than enough room for several groups to social distance and I briefly considered enjoying drinks and dinner outside. There wasn’t a soul around.
But it was Orlando at 4:30 p.m. and the skies, while not menacing, were a tad grey. We opted in.
There wasn’t a soul in there either save Stephanie, who was masked and exceedingly friendly. Flying solo as a server/barkeep can be lonely at times, during a pandemic especially. She was happy to make recommendations for food and drink and what to consider streaming on Netflix, all of which was welcome information as I took in the quaint space, imagining where I’d hang my favorite paintings and put the sofa if I could move in.
I love these little bungalows, darn it. Like so many, this one seemed lifted from the islands or Key West or a quaint New England main street. And this one had a stocked bar.
My dining companion went for a house favorite per Stephanie: The Swirl ($7). A frozen concoction that merges the vodkainfused pink lemonade and house sangria.
I really, really wanted a PopMosa ($6), essentially a glass of champagne with a gourmet popsicle accessory, but somehow it seemed too desserty, so split the diff with a Tropical Refresher ($7) — vodka, key lime juice and champagne with the fruity flavor of your choice (I went watermelon). We both enjoyed our bevs, though next time I might try the pom-cran version. I love bubbly like I love bungalows.
What to pair with? We partied ‘round the menu, comprised of shareable plates and larger entrees — also eminently shareable. I was ogling the curry deviled eggs ($6) but my dining bud, Theme Parks reporter and near-professional egg devil’er Dewayne Bevil, voted crab cakes ($13) and so I, too, pivoted with ovenroasted jerk plantain fries ($6).
Fans of hardcore, firebreathing jerk might balk — I suppose you could ask them to amp it up — but these are something to serve alongside your favorite porch pounder, ideal for a joint like Island Time, which clearly specializes in this colorful mixology
genre. Paired with an exceptionally tasty pineapple aioli (Dip away! These fries are baked!) they’ve got a light heat that nicely complements a tropical beverage or citrusy craft beer.
Like Motorworks Brewing’s grapefruity Pulp Friction, maybe. It’s among my colleague Joe Mario Pedersen’s faves, and it was the folks at Island Time who turned him on to it.
He’s a regular, yes, but Island Time was an occasional hang for Sentinel staffers in the pre-pandemic days, though I didn’t make it in until recently.
“They rock!” Pedersen told me when I mentioned I’d finally gone. “Drinks are great. I have always enjoyed cocktails and the food which always has a Caribbean twist such as the Jerk Wings. Love those. Albeit, the food is expensive for the portion size, but if you’re just going for snacks and a good time, you can’t beat it.”
The crab cakes we split clocked in at $13. The cakes themselves were amply sized and fine, but “unremarkable,” Dewayne noted. I agree. The chow chow and veggie-farro hash beneath, however, we liked quite a bit.
You can also get it alongside the massive cauliflower steak, which a chalkboard outside proclaimed was back on the menu. Staffer Stephanie noted that regulars had been asking after that one and we could see why. For the same $13 as the crab cakes, this one was a winner. Ever the gentleman, Dewayne let me have the fried egg on top. Vegetarian value in spades.
The Latin Meatloaf Balls ($15) on coconut plantain mashed potatoes and col
lard greens were roundly appreciated. If you’re not the sweet saucy sort, ask for the guava ketchup on the side.
The nicest thing about Island Time, to which I’d return for that PopMosa among other things, was the vibe: welcoming and airy and wholly “neighborhood,” the sort of place where you can chill by the fire pit when the weather cools off.
Or crash in at closing time on your birthday and the barkeep who knows your name will pour you and your lady a glass of champagne — quite literally
what happened to Joe Mario last week.
“They are so personable,” he told me. “I can’t say enough.”
From a reviewer’s standpoint, I’d argue otherwise.
If you go: 712 E. Washington St. in Orlando; 407-930-2640 or islandtimeorlando.com/
Want to reach out? Find me on Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. Join the conversation at the Orlando Sentinel’s new Facebook forum, Let’s Eat, Orlando.