When and how to fertilize pear trees
Question: My pear trees are going to flower soon. When is the time to fertilize the trees?
Answer: Put your pear tree on a lean diet to prevent excessive growth that is often affected by a disease known as fire blight. Feed new trees for the first three years every other month February through September with a light scattering of a 6-6-6 or similar fertilizer. Thereafter, fertilize in February and June with ½ pound of slow-release 6-6-6 fertilizer for each year of tree age up to a maximum of 5 pounds at each application. Spread it under the branches and out past the drip line.
Q: My tomato plants have blooms but no fruits. What additional care is needed?
A: Many gardeners lost tomato plants this winter, but luckily your plants made it through the cold and are blooming. Even though your plants did not get frosted or frozen, you can blame the winter weather for the lack of fruit. Tomatoes normally set blooms that produce fruit during the warmer spring and fall months. Some gardeners apply a blossom setting spray available from garden centers during unfavorable weather to obtain fruit with success. Even without this treatment, your plants should start producing fruits when the consistently warm days arrive in a few weeks.
Q: I notice trees with mulch piled at the base of their trunks. Is this what I should be doing?
A: No tree should be given what is called a ‘volcano mulch’ at the base. This technique of mounding bark, leaves, compost or similar materials close to and in contact with the trunk of trees and shrubs limits air movement around the plant portions. Keep mulches about 6 inches from the base of trees to allow air to reach the trunks and prevent rot. Also, limit mulch to no more than 2-3 inches under trees and shrubs so water and nutrients can move down into the soil. If the mulch is too near trunks and shoots, pull it back to let the plants breathe.
Q: Several of my spathiphyllum plants are overgrown. Can they be cut back in spring?
A: Spathiphyllum, also known as peace lilies, may be overgrown but also suffering from cold damage if growing outdoors. Feel free to cut them back as needed to restart the plants. Many have also grown congested in the ground or in containers. Now would be a good time to divide the plants to expand your collection or share with friends. Spathiphyllum plants make nice house and patio plants for shady locations. They are also used as a ground cover for warmer locations
Q: A white fungus is on the foliage of my shrubtype bird of paradise plants. I have tried fungicides but none work. What should I use?
A: Take a different approach to controlling that white stuff that is probably not a fungus but scale insects. They can look similar, but the scale insects can be easily scraped off the leaves, where fungal growths are usually embedded with the foliage. A horticultural oil spray found at local garden centers can control the scale insects, but it takes time for them to slough off the leaves. Make sure you hit the insects with the spray. A repeat spray is likely to be needed in a few weeks, following label instructions.
Q: We are adding a banana plant to our landscape. How close can I plant it to the house?
A: Unless you are growing a dwarf variety, bananas are tall and fairly wide growing plants. In addition, they send out shoots from their base to increase the planting. Keep your new plant 6-10 feet from the home. You do not have to worry about roots affecting the home, but the plants need full sun for good growth and to fruit. They appreciate the extra room to grow. Keep the soil moist, apply mulch and fertilize lightly monthly March through October to have fruits in about 15 months.
Q: I would like to cut the seed pods off my palms. When they drop seeds, they produce quite a mess. When can the pods and old stubby frond portions be removed?
A: Gardeners remove the forming seed pods and residual frond portions as needed and at any time of the year. Cut the pods as they form back to near the trunks of the palms. Though many landscape maintenance companies trim the old frond portions called “boots” back to the trunk, it is best to leave them until they naturally loosen. The boots can then be pulled off. Producing wounds in palm trunks makes them more susceptible to diseases, which seems to be prevalent at this time.
Q: I have a large, container-grown croton that has always been in a sunny room that I would like to plant outdoors. Is now a good time?
A. Crotons are very cold sensitive, so why not wait a few more weeks until winter is over? When temperatures dip to 32 degrees Fahrenheit or below these plants suffer leaf loss and often die back. Maybe you could set the plant outdoors in its container where you would like it to grow and move it back indoors if winter-like weather returns. This way it can acclimate to the site and be ready for planting around mid March. At this time, keep it moist and apply a slow release fertilizer.