What’s the deal with truffles? And where can I taste them?
Dear Amy Drew:
Recently ordered truffle fries at a restaurant after years of reading about how fancy and expensive truffles are. The fries were good. They had kind of a mushroom flavor … maybe. But it wasn’t pronounced or anything too special. What’s the deal? Where can I taste other truffle dishes? Can regular people buy them and make this stuff at home?
Al in Orlando
Amy Drew’s answer
Hey, Al:
Thanks for writing in. Like White Castle and uni and pineapple on pizza, truffles are both subjective and divisive.
For one, they have a distinct flavor and aroma that some people adore, others not so much (researchers say there’s some science at play here). For another, they’re hella expensive.
In fact, says Kevin Hudson, truffle ambassador and Central Florida regional manager for Tartufo Prestige (tartufoistria. com/), “I’d speculate that right now Alba white truffles would run somewhere around $350-$380 an ounce.”
Yowza. Why so pricey? It’ll make more sense when you know what they are and where they come from.
Truffles, like mushrooms, are the fruiting body of a larger fungal organism, biologically designed to spread spore and therefore, said fungus. They’re generally found near the roots of trees, often specific types, and they’re pretty hard to come by.
While scientists have worked celebration-worthy wonders in the world of lab-borne agriculture — I’m looking at you, seedless watermelon — they haven’t cracked the Davinci Code of truffles just yet. As such, truffle hunters head off into the woods to find them the old fashioned way. Sometimes with pigs, but these days more often with dogs, which don’t damage the terrain or try to eat the truffles.
In fact, just this weekend, I was enjoying the weather and lake views on the patio at Mount Dora’s Pisces Rising, when a craft cocktail caught my eye: The Truffle Hunter ($15). At first it was because of the Whistlepig 6-year Piggyback Rye, a current favorite of mine, but when our server told me that because of the strong truffle flavor, it was one of those “love it or hate it” cocktails, I knew I had to try it.
One sip and I could see why folks felt strongly. The truffle essence all but punched me in the face. And while I liked it, my companion enjoyed it even more — so we traded drinks.
So, what is truffle flavor? For the white variety, I’d say it’s something like a mushroom. One that’s been kidnapped, bound and gagged by an unruly gang of roasted garlic cloves.
“Definitely garlic on steroids,” says Hudson, who notes that other varieties, such as Périgord black, from France, have different profiles. “They’re earthier, almost chocolatey. Some people say they find notes of red wine. All of them, though, have really unique flavors.”
Truffles don’t have a long shelf life, either. Those white Albas — Hudson was selling them wholesale for $2,500 a pound earlier this year — need to be used within five days.
“Because of this, it’s helpful to infuse them into things like oil or butter or honey,” he explains. “These will keep for a long time and are a great way to familiarize yourself with the flavors and play with different recipes.”
He warns folks to be cognizant of the products they buy.
“If you go to Publix and one oil costs $8 and the other costs $35, there’s a reason… There are probably 50 to 60 truffle oils on the market and they are not created equal. The less expensive ones often use what’s called ‘truffle aroma’ or ‘truffle perfume.’ ”
Check the label. Make sure what you buy is made with actual truffles.
Chef Kevin Fonzo started his annual truffle dinner tradition 18 years ago, back when he owned one of the city’s hottest eateries: K Restaurant in College Park.
“It was always one of the most anticipated events and grew over the years as I believe K was the only restaurant doing truffle-themed dinners back then — right before Christmas during the white truffle season in Alba, Italy.”
Fonzo has kept up the tradition, keeping truffles front and center in the fall and winter seasons at his La Tavola (facebook.com/cheffonzo/) dinner events, but he’s also branched out. Partnering with Art in Voyage, Fonzo has hosted numerous journeys to some of his favorite regions, where participants get to go truffle hunting for themselves and taste incredible dishes in restaurants that date back centuries.
“My favorite dish made from truffles is a simple wild mushroom pasta,” says Fonzo. “The pasta is made with truffle dust [available
through Tartufo Prestige] and the dish is finished with truffle butter and freshly shaved truffles.”
Truffles have many applications, he says, but they don’t go with everything and it’s easy to go overboard if you’re not careful.
“Black truffles can be cooked into things like sauces,” he explains. “They’re more versatile and go both ways. They’re excellent on fish, poultry, meat and if it’s getting a little past its prime, you can micro plane it into olive oil and it’ll keep forever.”
White is more of an aromatic and never to be cooked.
“Shaved onto a dish right at the end before it is served, it permeates your sinuses with scents of garlic and pear.”
You can also get more bang for your buck by storing a white truffle in a sealed container with eggs or arborio rice for a day or two.
“The shells and rice are porous and will absorb the aromas of the truffle.”
Hudson sells wholesale to everyone from Perla’s Pizza to the Four Seasons to Kabooki Sushi, where the chefs use just about every product in the Tartufo Prestige
line.
“It seems like every week the Kabooki chefs are coming up with something new,” says Hudson. “Another client made our white truffle honey into ice cream. Up at Buster’s Bistro in Sanford, they used to mix it into mascarpone cheese and press that between two fresh waffles.”
Grilled Cheezus does a sandwich called the “Brie-Yonce,” that includes the truffle honey, as well.
Piqued? You or anyone else who is interested can send Hudson a direct message on his Instagram (instagram.com/kevintartufoprestige/) to learn more about Tartufo Prestige products.
The neat thing is that while truffles are kind of a big deal, the applications don’t have to be fancy.
“My favorite thing in the world to eat them on is scrambled eggs,” he says.
Got a food a question? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @ amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlando sentinel.com. For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.